It turned out to be a
museum of Roman antiquities, and the Emperor was inside,
arranging them. I immediately withdrew, but he called to me
to come in.
He was at this time busy with his Life of Caesar; and, in his
enthusiasm, seemed pleased to have a listener to his
instructive explanations; he even encouraged the curiosity
which the valuable collection and his own remarks could not
fail to awaken.
Not long ago, I saw some correspondence in the Times' and
other papers about what Heine calls 'Das kleine
welthistorische Hutchen,' which the whole of Europe knew so
well, to its cost. Some six or seven of the Buonaparte hats,
so it appears, are still in existence. But I noticed, that
though all were located, no mention was made of the one in
the Luxembourg.
When we left Compiegne for Paris we were magnificently
furnished with orders for royal boxes at theatres, and for
admission to places of interest not open to the public. Thus
provided, we had access to many objects of historical
interest and of art - amongst the former, the relics of the
great conqueror. In one glass case, under lock and key, was
the 'world-historical little hat.' The official who
accompanied us, having stated that we were the Emperor's
guests, requested the keeper to take it out and show it to
us. I hope no Frenchman will know it, but, I put the hat
upon my head. In one sense it was a 'little' hat - that is
to say, it fitted a man with a moderate sized skull - but the
flaps were much larger than pictures would lead one to think,
and such was the weight that I am sure it would give any
ordinary man accustomed to our head-gear a still neck to wear
it for an hour. What has become of this hat if it is not
still in the Luxembourg?
CHAPTER XLV
SOME few years later, while travelling with my family in
Switzerland, we happened to be staying at Baveno on Lago
Maggiore at the same time, and in the same hotel, as the
Crown Prince and Princess of Germany. Their Imperial
Highnesses occupied a suite of apartments on the first floor.
Our rooms were immediately above them. As my wife was known
to the Princess, occasional greetings passed from balcony to
balcony.
One evening while watching two lads rowing from the shore in
the direction of Isola Bella, I was aroused from my
contemplation of a gathering storm by angry vociferations
beneath me. These were addressed to the youths in the boat.
The anxious father had noted the coming tempest; and, with
hands to his mouth, was shouting orders to the young
gentlemen to return. Loud and angry as cracked the thunder,
the imperial voice o'ertopped it.
