Whenever He Approached Snake River, He Found It
Running Through A Broad Chasm, With Steep, Perpendicular Sides Of
Basaltic Rock.
After several days' travel across a level plain,
he came to a part of the river which filled him with astonishment
and admiration.
As far as the eye could reach, the river was
walled in by perpendicular cliffs two hundred and fifty feet
high, beetling like dark and gloomy battlements, while blocks and
fragments lay in masses at their feet, in the midst of the
boiling and whirling current. Just above, the whole stream
pitched in one cascade above forty feet in height, with a
thundering sound, casting up a volume of spray that hung in the
air like a silver mist. These are called by some the Fishing
Falls, as the salmon are taken here in immense quantities. They
cannot get by these falls.
After encamping at this place all night, Captain Bonneville, at
sunrise, descended with his party through a narrow ravine, or
rather crevice, in the vast wall of basaltic rock which bordered
the river; this being the only mode, for many miles, of getting
to the margin of the stream.
The snow lay in a thin crust along the banks of the river, so
that their travelling was much more easy than it had been
hitherto. There were foot tracks, also, made by the natives,
which greatly facilitated their progress. Occasionally, they met
the inhabitants of this wild region; a timid race, and but
scantily provided with the necessaries of life. Their dress
consisted of a mantle about four feet square, formed of strips of
rabbit skins sewed together; this they hung over their shoulders,
in the ordinary Indian mode of wearing the blanket. Their weapons
were bows and arrows; the latter tipped with obsidian, which
abounds in the neighborhood. Their huts were shaped like
haystacks, and constructed of branches of willow covered with
long grass, so as to be warm and comfortable. Occasionally, they
were surrounded by small inclosures of wormwood, about three feet
high, which gave them a cottage-like appearance. Three or four of
these tenements were occasionally grouped together in some wild
and striking situation, and had a picturesque effect. Sometimes
they were in sufficient number to form a small hamlet. From these
people, Captain Bonneville's party frequently purchased salmon,
dried in an admirable manner, as were likewise the roes. This
seemed to be their prime article of food; but they were extremely
anxious to get buffalo meat in exchange.
The high walls and rocks, within which the travellers had been so
long inclosed, now occasionally presented openings, through which
they were enabled to ascend to the plain, and to cut off
considerable bends of the river.
Throughout the whole extent of this vast and singular chasm, the
scenery of the river is said to be of the most wild and romantic
character. The rocks present every variety of masses and
grouping. Numerous small streams come rushing and boiling through
narrow clefts and ravines: one of a considerable size issued from
the face of a precipice, within twenty-five feet of its summit;
and after running in nearly a horizontal line for about one
hundred feet, fell, by numerous small cascades, to the rocky bank
of the river.
In its career through this vast and singular defile, Snake River
is upward of three hundred yards wide, and as clear as spring
water. Sometimes it steals along with a tranquil and noiseless
course; at other times, for miles and miles, it dashes on in a
thousand rapids, wild and beautiful to the eye, and lulling the
ear with the soft tumult of plashing waters.
Many of the tributary streams of Snake River, rival it in the
wildness and picturesqueness of their scenery. That called the
Bruneau; is particularly cited. It runs through a tremendous
chasm, rather than a valley, extending upwards of a hundred and
fifty miles. You come upon it on a sudden, in traversing a level
plain. It seems as if you could throw a stone across from cliff
to cliff; yet, the valley is near two thousand feet deep: so that
the river looks like an inconsiderable stream. Basaltic rocks
rise perpendicularly, so that it is impossible to get from the
plain to the water, or from the river margin to the plain. The
current is bright and limpid. Hot springs are found on the
borders of this river. One bursts out of the cliffs forty feet
above the river, in a stream sufficient to turn a mill, and sends
up a cloud of vapor.
We find a characteristic picture of this volcanic region of
mountains and streams, furnished by the journal of Mr. Wyeth,
which lies before us; who ascended a peak in the neighborhood we
are describing. From this summit, the country, he says, appears
an indescribable chaos; the tops of the hills exhibit the same
strata as far as the eye can reach; and appear to have once
formed the level of the country; and the valleys to be formed by
the sinking of the earth, rather than the rising of the hills.
Through the deep cracks and chasms thus formed, the rivers and
brooks make their way, which renders it difficult to follow them.
All these basaltic channels are called cut rocks by the trappers.
Many of the mountain streams disappear in the plains; either
absorbed by their thirsty soil, and by the porous surface of the
lava, or swallowed up in gulfs and chasms.
On the 12th of January (1834), Captain Bonneville reached Powder
River; much the largest stream that he had seen since leaving the
Portneuf. He struck it about three miles above its entrance into
Snake River. Here he found himself above the lower narrows and
defiles of the latter river, and in an open and level country.
The natives now made their appearance in considerable numbers,
and evinced the most insatiable curiosity respecting the white
men; sitting in groups for hours together, exposed to the
bleakest winds, merely for the pleasure of gazing upon the
strangers, and watching every movement.
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