It Is Now Abandoned And Desolate; The
Beautiful Valley Is Without An Inhabitant - Not A Human Being
Resides Within Thirty Miles Of The Place!
In approaching this deserted mission-house from the south, the
traveller passes over the mountain of San Juan, supposed to be
the highest peak in the Californias.
From this lofty eminence, a
vast and magnificent prospect unfolds itself; the great Gulf of
California, with the dark blue sea beyond, studded with islands;
and in another direction, the immense lava plain of San Gabriel.
The splendor of the climate gives an Italian effect to the
immense prospect. The sky is of a deep blue color, and the
sunsets are often magnificent beyond description. Such is a
slight and imperfect sketch of this remarkable peninsula.
Upper California extends from latitude 31 10' to 42 on the
Pacific, and inland, to the great chain of snow-capped mountains
which divide it from the sand plains of the interior. There are
about twenty-one missions in this province, most of which were
established about fifty years since, and are generally under the
care of the Franciscans. These exert a protecting sway over about
thirty-five thousand Indian converts, who reside on the lands
around the mission houses. Each of these houses has fifteen miles
square of land allotted to it, subdivided into small lots,
proportioned to the number of Indian converts attached to the
mission. Some are enclosed with high walls; but in general they
are open hamlets, composed of rows of huts, built of sunburnt
bricks; in some instances whitewashed and roofed with tiles. Many
of them are far in the interior, beyond the reach of all military
protection, and dependent entirely on the good will of the
natives, which never fails them. They have made considerable
progress in teaching the Indians the useful arts. There are
native tanners, shoemakers, weavers, blacksmiths, stonecutters,
and other artificers attached to each establishment. Others are
taught husbandry, and the rearing of cattle and horses; while the
females card and spin wool, weave, and perform the other duties
allotted to their sex in civilized life. No social intercourse is
allowed between the unmarried of the opposite sexes after working
hours; and at night they are locked up in separate apartments,
and the keys delivered to the priests.
The produce of the lands, and all the profits arising from sales,
are entirely at the disposal of the priests; whatever is not
required for the support of the missions, goes to augment a fund
which is under their control. Hides and tallow constitute the
principal riches of the missions, and, indeed, the main commerce
of the country. Grain might be produced to an unlimited extent at
the establishments, were there a sufficient market for it. Olives
and grapes are also reared at the missions.
Horses and horned cattle abound throughout all this region; the
former may be purchased at from three to five dollars, but they
are of an inferior breed. Mules, which are here of a large size
and of valuable qualities, cost from seven to ten dollars.
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