The Old
Hunter Acrimoniously Said He "Must Speak The Truth," The Miner
Was Directing Me Over A Track Where For Twenty-Five Miles There
Was Not A House, And Where, If Snow Came On, I Should Never Be
Heard Of Again.
The miner said he "must speak the truth," the
hunter was directing me over a pass where there were five feet of
snow, and no trail.
The teamster said that the only road
possible for a horse was so-and-so, and advised me to take the
wagon road into South Park, which I was determined not to do.
Mr. Link said he was the oldest hunter and settler in the
district, and he could not cross any of the trails in snow. And
so they went on. At last they partially agreed on a route - "the
worst road in the Rocky Mountains," the old hunter said, with two
feet of snow upon it, but a hunter had hauled an elk over part of
it, at any rate. The upshot of the whole you shall have in my
next letter.
I. L. B.
Letter XI
Tarryall Creek - The Red Range - Excelsior - Importunate
pedlars - Snow and heat - A bison calf - Deep drifts - South
Park - The Great Divide - Comanche Bill - Difficulties - Hall's
Gulch - A Lord Dundreary - Ridiculous fears.
HALL'S GULCH, COLORADO, November 6.
It was another cloudless morning, one of the many here on which
one awakes early, refreshed, and ready to enjoy the fatigues of
another day. In our sunless, misty climate you do not know the
influence which persistent fine weather exercises on the spirits.
I have been ten months in almost perpetual sunshine, and now a
single cloudy day makes me feel quite depressed. I did not leave
till 9:30, because of the slipperiness, and shortly after
starting turned off into the wilderness on a very dim trail.
Soon seeing a man riding a mile ahead, I rode on and overtook
him, and we rode eight miles together, which was convenient to
me, as without him I should several times have lost the trail
altogether. Then his fine American horse, on which he had only
ridden two days, broke down, while my "mad, bad bronco," on which
I had been traveling for a fortnight, cantered lightly over the
snow. He was the only traveler I saw in a day of nearly twelve
hours. I thoroughly enjoyed every minute of that ride. I
concentrated all my faculties of admiration and of locality, for
truly the track was a difficult one. I sometimes thought it
deserved the bad name given to it at Link's. For the most part
it keeps in sight of Tarryall Creek, one of the large affluents
of the Platte, and is walled in on both sides by mountains, which
are sometimes so close together as to leave only the narrowest
canyon between them, at others breaking wide apart, till, after
winding and climbing up and down for twenty-five miles, it
lands one on a barren rock-girdled park, watered by a rapid
fordable stream as broad as the Ouse at Huntingdon, snow fed and
ice fringed, the park bordered by fantastic rocky hills, snow
covered and brightened only by a dwarf growth of the beautiful
silver spruce.
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