It Brought To My Mind The Verse, "The Darkness Is
Past, And The True Light Now Shineth"; And, As If In Commentary
Upon It, Were The Hundreds And Thousands Of Men Delving In Dark
Holes In The Gloom Of The Twilight Below.
O earth, so full of dreary noises!
O men, with wailing in your voices,
O delved gold, the wailer's heap,
God strikes a silence through you all,
He giveth His beloved sleep.
It was something to reach that height and see the far off glory
of the sunset, and by it to be reminded that neither God nor His
sun had yet deserted the world. But the sun was fast going down,
and even as I gazed upon the wonderful vision the glory vanished,
and the peaks became sad and grey. It was strange to be the only
human being at that glacial altitude, and to descend again
through a foot of untrodden snow and over sloping sheets of ice
into the darkness, and to see the hill sides like a firmament of
stars, each showing the place where a solitary man in his hole
was delving for silver. The view, as long as I could see it, was
quite awful. It looked as if one could not reach Georgetown
without tumbling down a precipice. Precipices there were in
plenty along the road, skirted with ice to their verge. It was
the only ride which required nerve that I have taken in Colorado,
and it was long after dark when I returned from my exploit.
I left Georgetown at eight the next morning on the Idaho stage,
in glorious cold. In this dry air it is quite warm if there are
only a few degrees of frost. The sun does not rise in Georgetown
till eleven now; I doubt if it rises there at all in the winter!
After four hours' fearful bouncing, the baggage car again
received us, but this time the conductor, remarking that he
supposed I was just traveling to see the country, gave me his
chair and put it on the platform, so that I had an excellent view
of that truly sublime canyon. For economy I dined in a
restaurant in Golden City, and at three remounted my trusty
Birdie, intending to arrive here that night. The adventure I met
with is almost too silly to tell.
When I left Golden City it was a brilliant summer afternoon, and
not too hot. They could not give any directions at the stable,
and told me to go out on the Denver track till I met some one who
could direct me, which started me off wrong from the first.
After riding about two miles I met a man who told me I was all
wrong, and directed me across the prairie till I met another, who
gave me so many directions that I forgot them, and was
irretrievably lost. The afterglow, seen to perfection on the
open plain, was wonderful. Just as it grew dark I rode after a
teamster who said I was then four miles farther from Boulder than
when I left Golden, and directed me to a house seven miles off.
I suppose he thought I should know, for he told me to cross the
prairie till I came to a place where three tracks are seen, and
there to take the best-traveled one, steering all the time by the
north star. His directions did bring me to tracks, but it was
then so dark that I could see nothing, and soon became so dark
that I could not even see Birdie's ears, and was lost and
benighted. I rode on, hour after hour, in the darkness and
solitude, the prairie all round and a firmament of frosty stars
overhead. The prairie wolf howled now and then, and occasionally
the lowing of cattle gave me hope of human proximity. But there
was nothing but the lone wild plain. You can hardly imagine the
longing to see a light, to hear a voice, the intensely eerie
feeling of being alone in that vast solitude. It was freezing
very sharply and was very cold, and I was making up my mind to
steer all night for the pole-star, much fearing that I should be
brought up by one of the affluents of the Platte, or that Birdie
would tire, when I heard the undertoned bellowing of a bull,
which, from the snorting rooting up of earth, seemed to be
disputing the right of way, and the pony was afraid to pass.
While she was scuffling about, I heard a dog bark and a man
swear; then I saw a light, and in another minute found myself at
a large house, where I knew the people, only eleven miles from
Denver! It was nearly midnight, and light, warmth, and a good
bed were truly welcome.
You can form no idea of what the glory on the Plains is just
before sunrise. Like the afterglow, for a great height above the
horizon there is a shaded band of the most intense and glowing
orange, while the mountains which reflect the yet unrisen sun
have the purple light of amethysts. I left early, but soon lost
the track and was lost; but knowing that a sublime gash in the
mountains was Bear Canyon, quite near Boulder, I struck across
the prairie for it, and then found the Boulder track. "The
best-laid schemes of men and mice gang aft agley," and my
exploits came to an untimely end to-day. On arriving here,
instead of going into the mountains, I was obliged to go to bed
in consequence of vertigo, headache, and faintness, produced by
the intense heat of the sun. In all that weary land there was no
"shadow of a great rock" under which to rest. The gravelly,
baked soil reflected the fiery sun, and it was nearly maddening
to look up at the cool blue of the mountains, with their
stretches of pines and their deep indigo shadows.
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