Returning About Six Miles, I Took
Another Track, And Rode About Eight Miles Without Seeing A
Creature.
I then came to strange gorges with wonderful upright
rocks of all shapes and colors, and turning through a gate of
rock, came upon what I knew must be Glen Eyrie, as wild and
romantic a glen as imagination ever pictured.
The track then
passed down a valley close under some ghastly peaks, wild, cold,
awe-inspiring scenery. After fording a creek several times, I
came upon a decayed-looking cluster of houses bearing the
arrogant name of Colorado City, and two miles farther on, from
the top of one of the Foot Hill ridges, I saw the bleak-looking
scattered houses of the ambitious watering place of Colorado
Springs, the goal of my journey of 150 miles. I got off, put on
a long skirt, and rode sidewise, though the settlement scarcely
looked like a place where any deference to prejudices was
necessary. A queer embryo-looking place it is, out on the bare
Plains, yet it is rising and likely to rise, and has some big
hotels much resorted to. It has a fine view of the mountains,
specially of Pike's Peak, but the celebrated springs are at
Manitou, three miles off, in really fine scenery. To me no place
could be more unattractive than Colorado Springs, from its utter
treelessness.
I found the - - -s living in a small room which served for
parlor, bedroom, and kitchen, and combined the comforts of all.
It is inhabited also by two prairie dogs, a kitten, and a
deerhound. It was truly homelike. Mrs. - - - walked with me to
the boarding-house where I slept, and we sat some time in the
parlor talking with the landlady. Opposite to me there was a
door wide open into a bed room, and on a bed opposite to the door
a very sick-looking young man was half-lying, half-sitting, fully
dressed, supported by another, and a very sick-looking young man
much resembling him passed in and out occasionally, or leaned on
the chimney piece in an attitude of extreme dejection. Soon the
door was half-closed, and some one came to it, saying rapidly,
"Shields, quick, a candle!" and then there were movings about in
the room. All this time the seven or eight people in the room in
which I was were talking, laughing, and playing backgammon, and
none laughed louder than the landlady, who was sitting where she
saw that mysterious door as plainly as I did. All this time, and
during the movings in the room, I saw two large white feet
sticking up at the end of the bed. I watched and watched, hoping
those feet would move, but they did not; and somehow, to my
thinking, they grew stiffer and whiter, and then my horrible
suspicion deepened, and while we were sitting there a human
spirit untended and desolate had passed forth into the night.
Then a man came out with a bundle of clothes, and then the sick
young man, groaning and sobbing, and then a third, who said to
me, with some feeling, that the man who had just died was the
sick young man's only brother. And still the landlady laughed
and talked, and afterwards said to me, "It turns the house upside
down when they just come here and die; we shall be half the night
laying him out." I could not sleep for the bitter cold and the
sound of the sobs and groans of the bereaved brother. The next
day the landlady, in a fashionably-made black dress, was bustling
about, proud of the prospective arrival of a handsome coffin. I
went into the parlor to get a needle, and the door of THAT room
was open, and children were running in and out, and the landlady,
who was sweeping there, called cheerily to me to come in for the
needle, and there, to my horror, not even covered with a face
cloth, and with the sun blazing in through the unblinded window,
lay that thing of terror, a corpse, on some chairs which were not
even placed straight. It was buried in the afternoon, and from
the looks of the brother, who continued to sob and moan, his end
cannot be far off.
The - - -s say that many go to the Springs in the last stage of
consumption, thinking that the Colorado climate will cure them,
without money enough to pay for even the coarsest board. We
talked most of that day, and I equipped myself with arctics and
warm gloves for the mountain tour which has been planned for me,
and I gave Birdie the Sabbath she was entitled to on Tuesday, for
I found, on arriving at the Springs, that the day I crossed the
Arkansas Divide was Sunday, though I did not know it. Several
friends of Miss Kingsley called on me; she is much remembered and
beloved. This is not an expensive tour; we cost about ten
shillings a day, and the five days which I have spent en route
from Denver have cost something less than the fare for the few
hours' journey by the cars. There are no real difficulties. It
is a splendid life for health and enjoyment. All my luggage
being in a pack, and my conveyance being a horse, we can go
anywhere where we can get food and shelter.
GREAT GORGE OF THE MANITOU, October 29.
This is a highly picturesque place, with several springs, still
and effervescing, the virtues of which were well known to the
Indians. Near it are places, the names of which are familiar to
every one - the Garden of the Gods, Glen Eyrie, Pike's Peak,
Monument Park, and the Ute Pass. It has two or three immense
hotels, and a few houses picturesquely situated. It is thronged
by thousands of people in the summer who come to drink the
waters, try the camp cure, and make mountain excursions; but it
is all quiet now, and there are only a few lingerers in this
immense hotel.
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