The Englishwoman In America By Isabella Lucy Bird
























































































































 - THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN AMERICA 

BY ISABELLA LUCY BIRD

FOREWORD AND NOTES BY ANDREW HILL CLARK




CONTENTS.


CHAPTER I.

Prefatory and - Page 1
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THE ENGLISHWOMAN IN AMERICA

BY ISABELLA LUCY BIRD

FOREWORD AND NOTES BY ANDREW HILL CLARK

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER I.

Prefatory and explanatory - The voyage out - The sentimental - The actual - The oblivious - The medley - Practical joking - An unwelcome companion - American patriotism - The first view - The departure.

CHAPTER II.

An inhospitable reception - Halifax and the Blue Noses - The heat - Disappointed expectations - The great departed - What the Blue Noses might be - What the coach was not - Nova Scotia and its capabilities - The roads and their annoyances - A tea dinner - A night journey and a Highland cabin - A nautical catastrophe - A joyful reunion.

CHAPTER III.

Popular ignorance - The garden island - Summer and winter contrasted - A wooden capital - Island politics, and their consequences - Gossip - "Blowin- time" - Religion and the clergy - The servant nuisance - Colonial society - An evening party - An island premier - Agrarian outrage - A visit to the Indians - The pipe of peace - An Indian coquette - Country hospitality - A missionary - A novel mode of lobster-fishing - Uncivilised life - Far away in the woods - Starvation and dishonesty - An old Highlander and a Highland welcome - Hopes for the future.

CHAPTER IV.

From St. George's Cross to the Stars and Stripes - Unpunctuality - Incompetence - A wretched night - Colonial curiosity - The fashions - A night in a buffalo robe - A stage journey - A queer character - Politics - Chemistry - Mathematics - Rotten bridges - A midnight arrival - Colonial ignorance - Yankee conceit - What ten-horse power chaps can do - The pestilence - The city on the rock - New Brunswick - Steamboat peculiarities - Going ahead in the eating line - A storm - Stepping ashore.

CHAPTER V.

First experiences of American freedom - The "striped pig" and "Dusty Ben" - A country mouse - What the cars are like - Beauties of New England - The land of apples - A Mammoth hotel - The rusty inkstand exiled - Eloquent eyes - Alone in a crowd.

CHAPTER VI.

A suspected bill - A friend in need - All aboard for the Western cars - The wings of the wind - American politeness - A loquacious conductor - Three minutes for refreshments - A conversation on politics - A confession - The emigrant car - Beauties of the woods - A forest on fire - Dangers of the cars - The Queen City of the West.

CHAPTER VII.

The Queen City continued - Its beauties - Its inhabitants, human and equine - An American church - Where chairs and bedsteads come from - Pigs and pork - A peep into Kentucky - Popular opinions respecting slavery - The curse of America.

CHAPTER VIII.

The hickory stick - Chawing up ruins - A forest scene - A curious questioner - Hard and soft shells - Dangers of a ferry - The western prairies - Nocturnal detention - The Wild West and the Father of Rivers - Breakfast in a shed - What is an alligator? - Physiognomy, and its uses - The ladies' parlour - A Chicago hotel, its inmates and its horrors - A water-drinking people - The Prairie City - Progress of the West.

CHAPTER IX.

A vexatious incident - John Bull enraged - Woman's rights - Alligators become hosses - A popular host - Military display - A mirth-provoking gun - Grave reminiscences - Attractions of the fair - Past and present - A floating palace - Black companions - A black baby - Externals of Buffalo - The flag of England.

CHAPTER X.

The Place of Council - Its progress and its people - English hearts - "Sebastopol is taken" - Squibs and crackers - A ship on her beam-ends - Selfishness - A mongrel city - A Scot - Constancy rewarded - Monetary difficulties - Detention on a bridge - A Canadian homestead - Life in the clearings - The bush on fire - A word on farming - The "bee" and its produce - Eccentricities of Mr. Haldimands - A ride on a troop-horse - Scotch patriotism - An English church - The servant nuisance - Richard Cobden.

CHAPTER XI.

"I've seen nothing" - A disappointment - Incongruities - Hotel gaieties and "doing Niagara" - Irish drosky-drivers - "The Hell of Waters" - Beauties of Niagara - The picnic party - The white canoe - A cold shower-bath - "The Thunder of Waters" - A magic word - "The Whirlpool" - Story of "Bloody Run" - Yankee opinions of English ladies - A metamorphosis - The nigger guide - A terrible situation - Termination Rock - Impressions of Niagara - Juvenile precocity - A midnight journey - Street adventures in Hamilton.

CHAPTER XII.

A scene at starting - That dear little Harry - The old lady and the race - Running the Rapids - An aside - Snow and discomfort - A new country - An extemporised ball - Adventure with a madman - Shooting the cataract - First appearance of Montreal - Its characteristics - Quebec in a fog - "Muffins" - Quebec gaieties - The pestilence - Restlessness - St. Louis and St. Roch - The shady side - Dark dens - External characteristics - Lord Elgin - Mistaking a senator.

CHAPTER XIII.

The House of Commons - Canadian gallantry - The constitution - Mr. Hincks - The ex-rebel - Parties and leaders - A street row - Repeated disappointments - The "habitans" - Their houses and their virtues - A stationary people - Progress and its effects - Montmorenci - The natural staircase - The Indian summer - Lorette - The old people - Beauties of Quebec - The _John Munn_ - Fear and its consequences - A gloomy journey.

CHAPTER XIV.

Concluding remarks on Canada - Territory - Climate - Capabilities - Railways and canals - Advantages for emigrants - Notices of emigration - Government - The franchise - Revenue - Population - Religion - Education - The press - Literature - Observations in conclusion.

CHAPTER XV.

Preliminary remarks on re-entering the States - Americanisms - A little slang - Liquoring up - Eccentricities in dress - A 'cute chap down east - Conversation on eating - A Kentucky gal - Lake Champlain - Delaval's - A noisy serenade - Albany - Beauties of the Hudson - The Empire City.

CHAPTER XVI.

Position of New York - Externals of the city - Conveyances - Maladministration - The stores - The hotels - Curiosities of the hospital - Ragged schools - The bad book - Monster schools - Amusements and oyster saloons - Monstrosities - - A restaurant - Dwelling-houses - Equipages - Palaces - Dress - Figures - Manners - Education - Domestic habits - The ladies - The gentlemen - Society - Receptions - Anti-English feeling - Autographs - The buckram Englishman.

CHAPTER XVII.

The cemetery - Its beauties - The "Potter's Field" - The graves of children - Monumental eccentricities - Arrival of emigrants - Their reception - Poor dwellings - The dangerous class - The elections - The riots - Characteristics of the streets - Journey to Boston - The sights of Boston - Longfellow - Cambridge University.

CHAPTER XVIII.

Origin of the Constitution - The Executive - Congress - Local Legislatures - The army and navy - Justice - Slavery - Political corruption - The foreign element - Absence of principle - Associations - The Know-nothings - The press and its power - Religion - The church - The clergy.

CHAPTER XIX.

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