Our Fifth And Last Day's Journey Was A Long One Of Forty Miles,
Yet Near Cape Traverse Our Horse Ran Away Down A Steep Hill, And Across A
Long Wooden Bridge Without A Parapet, Thereby Placing Our Lives In
Imminent Jeopardy.
After travelling for several hours we came to a lone
house, where we hoped to get some refreshment both for ourselves and the
horse, but found the house locked, a remarkable fact, as in this island
robbery is almost unknown.
We were quite exhausted with hunger, and our
hearts sank when we found every door and window closed. We then, as an act
of mercy, stole a sheaf of oats from a neighbouring field, and cut the
ears off for the horse with our penknives, after which we, in absolute
hunger, ate as many grains as we could clean from the husks, and some
fern, which we found very bitter. We looked very much like a group of
vagrants sitting by the road-side, the possession of the oats being
disputed with us by five lean pigs. When after another hour we really
succeeded in getting something more suitable for human beings, we ate like
famished creatures.
While I was walking up a long hill, I passed a neat cabin in a garden of
pumpkins, placed in a situation apparently chosen from its extreme
picturesqueness. Seeing an old man, in a suit of grey frieze and a blue
bonnet, standing at the gate, I addressed him with the words, "Cia mar
thasibh an diugh." "Slan gu robh math agaibh. Cia mar thasibh an fein,"
[Footnote: "How are you to-day?" "Very well, thank you. I hope you are
well."] was the delighted reply, accompanied with a hearty shake of both
hands. He was from Snizort, in the Isle of Skye, and, though he had
attained competence in the land of his adoption, he mourned the absence of
his native heather. He asked me the usual Highland question, "Tell me the
news;" and I told him all that I could recollect of those with whom he was
familiar. He spoke of the Cuchullin Hills, and the stern beauty of Loch
Corruisk, with tears in his eyes. "Ah," he said, "I have no wish but to
see them once again. Who is the lady with you - the lily?" he asked, for he
spoke English imperfectly, and preferred his own poetical tongue. "May
your path be always bright, lady!" he said, as he shook my hand warmly at
parting; "and ye'll come and see me when ye come again, and bring me tales
from the old country." The simple wish of Donnuil Dhu has often recurred
to me in the midst of gayer scenes and companions. It brought to mind
memories of many a hearty welcome received in the old man's Highland home,
and of those whose eyes were then looking upon the Cuchullin Hills.
After this expedition, where so much kindness had been experienced,
Charlotte Town did not appear more delightful than before, and, though
sorry to take leave of many kind relatives and friends, I was glad that
only one more day remained to me in the island.
I cordially wish its people every prosperity. They are loyal, moral, and
independent, and their sympathies with England have lately been evidenced
by their liberal contributions to the Patriotic Fund. When their trade and
commerce shall have been extended, and when a more suitable plan has been
adopted for the support of religion; when large portions of waste land
have been brought under cultivation, and local resources have been farther
developed, people will be too much occupied with their own affairs to busy
themselves, as now, either with the affairs of others, or with the puerile
politics of so small a community; and then the island will deserve the
title which has been bestowed on it, "The Garden of British America."
CHAPTER IV.
From St. George's Cross to the Stars and Stripes - Unpunctuality -
Incompetence - - A wretched night - Colonial curiosity - The fashions - A
night in a buffalo robe - A stage journey - A queer character - Politics -
Chemistry - Mathematics - Rotten bridges - A midnight arrival - Colonial
ignorance - Yankee conceit - What ten-horse power chaps can do - The
pestilence - The city on the rock - New Brunswick - Steamboat peculiarities -
Going ahead in the eating line - A storm - Stepping ashore.
The ravages of the cholera having in some degree ceased, I left Prince
Edward Island for the United States, and decided to endure the delays and
inconveniences of the intercolonial route for the purpose of seeing
something of New Brunswick on my way to Boston.
The journey from the island to the States is in itself by no means an easy
one, and is rendered still more difficult by the want of arrangement on
the part of those who conduct the transit of travellers. The inhabitants
of our eastern colonies do not understand the value of time, consequently
the uncertain arrivals and departures of the Lady Le Marchant furnish
matter for numerous speculations. From some circumstances which had
occurred within my knowledge - one being that the captain of this steamer
had forgotten to call for the continental mails - I did not attach much
importance to the various times which were fixed definitely for her
sailing between the hours of four and ten.
A cloudy, gloomy night had succeeded to the bright blaze of an August day,
and midnight was fast approaching before the signal-bell rang. Two friends
accompanied me as far as Bedeque, and, besides the gentleman under whose
escort I was to travel, there were twelve island gentlemen and two ladies,
all supposed to be bound, like myself, for Boston. All separate
individualities were, however, lost amid the confusion of bear-skin and
waterproof coats and the impenetrable darkness which brooded both on wharf
and steamer.
An amusing scene of bungling marked our departure from Charlotte Town. The
captain, a sturdy old Northumbrian seaman, thoroughly understood his
business; but the owners of the ship compelled him to share its management
with a very pertinacious pilot, and the conflicting orders given, and the
want of harmony in the actions produced, gave rise to many reflections on
the evils of divided responsibility.
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