We Arrived At Swan River At About One O'clock, Where We Dined On Wild
Ducks.
That is a village also of considerable importance; but it is
not so large as Little Falls, which is three miles this side.
At that
place the Mississippi furnishes a good water power. It has a spacious
and tidy hotel, several stores, mechanics' shops, a saw-mill, &c. At
Belle Prairie we begin to see something of the Chippewas. The
half-breeds have there some good farms, and the school-house and the
church denote the progress of civilization. It was near sunset when we
reached Fort Ripley. The garrison stands on the west bank of the
Mississippi, but the reservation extends several miles on both sides.
The stage crosses the river on the ferry to leave the mail and then
returns. The great flag was still flying from the high staff, and had
an inspiring influence. Like most of our inland military posts, Port
Ripley has no stone fortifications. It is neatly laid out in a square,
and surrounded by a high protective fence. Three or four field-pieces
stand upon the bank of the river fronting it, and at some distance
present a warlike attitude. The rest of the trip, being about five
miles, was over the reservation, on which, till we come to Crow Wing,
are no settlements. Here I gladly alighted from the coach, and found
most comfortable and agreeable entertainment at a house which stands
on the immediate bank of the river.
LETTER VI.
THE TOWN OF CROW WING.
Scenery First settlement of Crow Wing Red Lake Indians Mr.
Morrison Prospects of the town Upper navigation Mr. Beaulieu
Washington's theory as to Norfolk Observations on the growth of
towns.
CROW WING, October, 1856.
I AM highly gratified with the appearance of this place. Mr. Burke
says " In order that we should love our country, our country should
first be lovely," and there is much wisdom in the remark. Nature has
done so much for this locality that one could be contented to live
here on quite a moderate income. The land is somewhat elevated, near
the bank of the Mississippi, affording a pleasant view over upon the
western side, both above and below the two graceful mouths of the Crow
Wing River. Towards the east and north, after a few miles, the view is
intercepted by a higher ridge of land covered with timber; or, by the
banks of the Mississippi itself, as from this point we begin to ascend
it in a northeasterly course.
Crow Wing was selected as a trading post upwards of twenty years ago.
Mr. McDonnald, who still resides here, was, I believe, the first white
settler. Till within a recent period it was the headquarters of the
Mississippi tribe of Chippewas, and the principal trading depot with
the Chippewas generally. Here they brought their furs, the fruits of
their buffalo and their winter hunts, and their handicraft of beads
and baskets, to exchange for clothing and for food. Thus the place was
located and settled on long before there was a prospect of its
becoming a populous town. Mr. Rice, the delegate in congress, if I
mistake not, once had a branch store here with several men in his
employ. The principal traders at present are Mr. Abbee and Mr.
Beaulieu, who have large and well selected stocks of goods. The
present population of white persons probably numbers a hundred souls.
The place now has a more populous appearance on account of the
presence of a caravan of Red Lake Indians, who have come down about
four hundred miles to trade. They are encamped round about in tents or
birch bark lodges, as it may happen to be. In passing some of them, I
saw the squaws busily at work on the grass outside of the lodge in
manufacturing flag carpets. The former Indian residents are now
removed to their reservation in the fork of the Mississippi and Crow
Wing rivers, where their agency is now established.
The houses here are very respectable in size, and furnished in
metropolitan style and elegance. The farms are highly productive, and
the grazing for stock unequalled. There is a good ferry at the upper
end of the town, at a point where the river is quite narrow and deep.
You can be taken over with a horse for twenty-five cents; with a
carriage, I suppose, the tariff is higher.
Perhaps one cause of my favorable impression of Crow Wing is the
excellent and home-like hotel accommodations which I have found. The
proprietor hardly assumes to keep a public-house, and yet provides his
guests with very good entertainment; and I cannot refrain from saying
that there is no public-house this side of St. Paul where the
traveller will be better treated. Mr. Morrison for that is the
proprietor's name came here fifteen years ago, having first come
into this region in the service of John Jacob Astor. He married one of
the handsomest of the Chippewa maidens, who is now his faithful wife
and housekeeper, and the mother of several interesting and amiable
children. Mr. M. is the postmaster. He has been a member of the
territorial legislature, and his name has been given to a large and
beautiful county. I judge that society has been congenial in the town.
The little church, standing on an eminence, indicates some union of
sentiment at least, and a regard for the higher objects of life.
Spring and summer and autumn must be delightful seasons here, and
bring with them the sweetest tranquillity. Nor are the people shut out
from the world in winter; for then there is travel and intercourse and
traffic. So are there pleasures and recreation peculiar to the season.
But the serene and quiet age of the settlement is near its close.
Enterprise and speculation, with their bustle and turmoil, have laid
hold of it. The clank of the hammer, the whistle of steamboats, the
rattling of carts, heaps of lumber and of bricks, excavations and
gratings, short corners and rough unshapen walks, will usurp the quiet
and the regularity of the place.
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