I Cannot Take Leave Of Cairo Without Paying The Tribute Due To The
Manner In Which The Streets Are Kept.
In passing along the narrow
lanes and avenues before-mentioned, not one of the senses was shocked;
dust, of
Course, there is every where, but nothing worse to be seen at
least; and the sight and smell were not offended, as at Paris or even
in London, when passing through the by-ways of either. Altogether, if
I may venture to pronounce an opinion, after so short a residence, I
should say that, if our peaceful relations with Egypt should continue
to be kept up, in no place will travellers be better received or
entertained than in Cairo.
CHAPTER VI.
* * * * *
THE DESERT.
* * * * *
Equipage for crossing the Desert - Donkey-chairs - Sense of calmness and
tranquillity on entering the Desert - Nothing dismal in its
aspect - The Travellers' Bungalow - Inconvenient construction of these
buildings - Kafila of the Governor of Jiddah and his Lady - Their
Equipage - Bedouins - Impositions practised on Travellers - Desert
Travelling not disagreeable - Report of the sailing of the
Steamer - Frequency of false reports - Ease with which an infant of
the party bore the journey - A wheeled carriage crossing the
Desert - Parties of Passengers from Suez encountered - One of Mr. Hill's
tilted Caravans - Difficulty of procuring water at the Travellers'
Bungalow - A night in the Desert - Magnificent sunrise - First sight
of the Red Sea and the Town of Suez - Miserable appearance of the
latter - Engagement of a Passage to Bombay.
We found the equipages in which we were to cross the desert waiting
for us at the City of Tombs. They consisted of donkey-chairs, one
being provided for each of the females of the party, while my
friend Miss E. had also an extra donkey, with a saddle, to ride upon
occasionally. Nothing could be more comfortable than these vehicles;
a common arm-chair was fastened into a sort of wooden tray, which
projected in front about a foot, thereby enabling the passenger to
carry a small basket or other package; the chairs were then slung by
the arms to long bamboos, one upon either side, and these, by means
of ropes or straps placed across, were fastened upon the backs
of donkeys, one in front, the other, behind. Five long and narrow
vehicles of this kind, running across the desert, made a sufficiently
droll and singular appearance, and we did nothing but admire each
other as we went along. The movement was delightfully easy, and the
donkeys, though not travelling at a quick pace, got on very well. Our
cavalcade consisted besides of two stout donkeys, which carried the
beds and carpet-bags of the whole party, thus enabling us to send the
camels a-head: the three men-servants were also mounted upon donkeys,
and there were three or four spare ones, in case any of the others
should knock up upon the road. In this particular it is proper to
say that we were cheated, for had such an accident occurred, the
extra-animals were so weak and inefficient, that they could not have
supplied the places of any of those in use.
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