From The Look Of The Land, I Think This River Connecting
Ayzingo And Lake Ncovi Wanders Down This Valley Between The Mountain
Spurs Of The Sierra Del Cristal, Expanding Into One Gloomy Lake
After Another.
We run our canoe into a bank of the dank dark-
coloured water herb to the right, and disembark into a fitting
introduction to the sort of country we shall have to deal with
before we see the Rembwe - namely, up to our knees in black slime.
CHAPTER VIII. FROM NCOVI TO ESOON.
Concerning the way in which the voyager goes from the island of
M'fetta to no one knows exactly where, in doubtful and bad company,
and of what this led to and giving also some accounts of the Great
Forest and of those people that live therein.
I will not bore you with my diary in detail regarding our land
journey, because the water-washed little volume attributive to this
period is mainly full of reports of law cases, for reasons
hereinafter to be stated; and at night, when passing through this
bit of country, I was usually too tired to do anything more than
make an entry such as: "5 S., 4 R. A., N.E Ebony. T. 1-50, etc.,
etc." - entries that require amplification to explain their
significance, and I will proceed to explain.
Our first day's march was a very long one. Path in the ordinary
acceptance of the term there was none. Hour after hour, mile after
mile, we passed on, in the under-gloom of the great forest. The
pace made by the Fans, who are infinitely the most rapid Africans I
have ever come across, severely tired the Ajumba, who are canoe men,
and who had been as fresh as paint, after their exceedingly long
day's paddling from Arevooma to M'fetta. Ngouta, the Igalwa
interpreter, felt pumped, and said as much, very early in the day.
I regretted very much having brought him; for, from a mixture of
nervous exhaustion arising from our M'fetta experiences, and a touch
of chill he had almost entirely lost his voice, and I feared would
fall sick. The Fans were evidently quite at home in the forest, and
strode on over fallen trees and rocks with an easy, graceful stride.
What saved us weaklings was the Fans' appetites; every two hours
they sat down, and had a snack of a pound or so of meat and aguma
apiece, followed by a pipe of tobacco. We used to come up with them
at these halts. Ngouta and the Ajumba used to sit down, and rest
with them, and I also, for a few minutes, for a rest and chat, and
then I would go on alone, thus getting a good start. I got a good
start, in the other meaning of the word, on the afternoon of the
first day when descending into a ravine.
I saw in the bottom, wading and rolling in the mud, a herd of five
elephants. I remembered, hastily, that your one chance when charged
by several elephants is to dodge them round trees, working down wind
all the time, until they lose smell and sight of you, then to lie
quiet for a time, and go home. It was evident from the utter
unconcern of these monsters that I was down wind now, so I had only
to attend to dodging, and I promptly dodged round a tree, and lay
down. Seeing they still displayed no emotion on my account, and
fascinated by the novelty of the scene, I crept forward from one
tree to another, until I was close enough to have hit the nearest
one with a stone, and spats of mud, which they sent flying with
their stamping and wallowing came flap, flap among the bushes
covering me.
One big fellow had a nice pair of 40 lb. or so tusks on him,
singularly straight, and another had one big curved tusk and one
broken one. Some of them lay right down like pigs in the deeper
part of the swamp, some drew up trunkfuls of water and syringed
themselves and each other, and every one of them indulged in a good
rub against a tree. Presently when they had had enough of it they
all strolled off up wind, through the bush in Indian file, now and
then breaking off a branch, but leaving singularly little dead water
for their tonnage and breadth of beam. When they had gone I rose
up, turned round to find the men, and trod on Kiva's back then and
there, full and fair, and fell sideways down the steep hillside
until I fetched up among some roots.
It seems Kiva had come on, after his meal, before the others, and
seeing the elephants, and being a born hunter, had crawled like me
down to look at them. He had not expected to find me there, he
said. I do not believe he gave a thought of any sort to me in the
presence of these fascinating creatures, and so he got himself
trodden on. I suggested to him we should pile the baggage, and go
and have an elephant hunt. He shook his head reluctantly, saying
"Kor, kor," like a depressed rook, and explained we were not strong
enough; there were only three Fans - the Ajumba, and Ngouta did not
count - and moreover that we had not brought sufficient ammunition
owing to the baggage having to be carried, and the ammunition that
we had must be saved for other game than elephant, for we might meet
war before we met the Rembwe River.
We had by now joined the rest of the party, and were all soon
squattering about on our own account in the elephant bath. It was
shocking bad going - like a ploughed field exaggerated by a terrific
nightmare. It pretty nearly pulled all the legs off me, and to this
hour I cannot tell you if it is best to put your foot into a
footmark - a young pond, I mean - about the size of the bottom of a
Madeira work arm-chair, or whether you should poise yourself on the
rim of the same, and stride forward to its other bank boldly and
hopefully.
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