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And Now We Will Leave Generalisations On West African Rivers And Go
Into Particulars Regarding One Little Known In England, And Called
By Its Owners, The French, The Greatest Strictly Equatorial River In
The World - The Ogowe.
CHAPTER IV.
THE OGOWE.
Wherein the voyager gives extracts from the Log of the Move and of
the Eclaireur, and an account of the voyager's first meeting with
"those fearful Fans," also an awful warning to all young persons who
neglect the study of the French language.
On the 20th of May I reached Gaboon, now called Libreville - the
capital of Congo Francais, and, thanks to the kindness of Mr.
Hudson, I was allowed a passage on a small steamer then running from
Gaboon to the Ogowe River, and up it when necessary as far as
navigation by steamer is possible - this steamer is, I deeply regret
to say, now no more. As experiences of this kind contain such
miscellaneous masses of facts, I am forced to commit the literary
crime of giving you my Ogowe set of experiences in the form of
diary.
June 5th, 1895. - Off on Move at 9.30. Passengers, Mr. Hudson, Mr.
Woods, Mr. Huyghens, Pere Steinitz, and I. There are black deck-
passengers galore; I do not know their honourable names, but they
are evidently very much married men, for there is quite a gorgeously
coloured little crowd of ladies to see them off. They salute me as
I pass down the pier, and start inquiries. I say hastily to them:
"Farewell, I'm off up river," for I notice Mr. Fildes bearing down
on me, and I don't want him to drop in on the subject of society
interest. I expect it is settled now, or pretty nearly. There is a
considerable amount of mild uproar among the black contingent, and
the Move firmly clears off before half the good advice and good
wishes for the black husbands are aboard. She is a fine little
vessel; far finer than I expected. The accommodation I am getting
is excellent. A long, narrow cabin, with one bunk in it and pretty
nearly everything one can wish for, and a copying press thrown in.
Food is excellent, society charming, captain and engineer quite
acquisitions. The saloon is square and roomy for the size of the
vessel, and most things, from rowlocks to teapots, are kept under
the seats in good nautical style. We call at the guard-ship to pass
our papers, and then steam ahead out of the Gaboon estuary to the
south, round Pongara Point, keeping close into the land. About
forty feet from shore there is a good free channel for vessels with
a light draught which if you do not take, you have to make a big
sweep seaward to avoid a reef. Between four and five miles below
Pongara, we pass Point Gombi, which is fitted with a lighthouse, a
lively and conspicuous structure by day as well as night. It is
perched on a knoll, close to the extremity of the long arm of low,
sandy ground, and is painted black and white, in horizontal bands,
which, in conjunction with its general figure, give it a pagoda-like
appearance.
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