Added To
These Joys Were Any Quantity Of Mangrove Flies, A Broiling Hot Sun,
And An Atmosphere Three-Quarters Solid Stench From The Putrefying
Ooze All Round Us.
For an hour and a half thought I, Why did I come
to Africa, or why, having come, did I not know when I was well off
and stay in Glass?
Before these problems were settled in my mind we
were close to the true land again, with the water under us licking
lazily among the roots and over our feet.
We did not make any fuss about it, but we meant to stick to dry land
for some time, and so now took to the side of a hill that seemed
like a great bubble coming out of the swamp, and bore steadily E.
until we found a path. This path, according to the nature of paths
in this country, promptly took us into another swamp, but of a
different kind to our last - a knee-deep affair, full of beautiful
palms and strange water plants, the names whereof I know not. There
was just one part where that abomination, pandanus, had to be got
through, but, as swamps go, it was not at all bad. I ought to
mention that there were leeches in it, lest I may be thought too
enthusiastic over its charms. But the great point was that the
mountains we got to on the other side of it, were a good solid
ridge, running, it is true, E. and W., while we wanted to go N.;
still on we went waiting for developments, and watching the great
line of mangrove-swamp spreading along below us to the left hand,
seeing many of the lines in its dark face, which betokened more of
those awesome slime lagoons that we had seen enough of at close
quarters.
About four o'clock we struck some more plantations, and passing
through these, came to a path running north-east, down which we
went. I must say the forest scenery here was superbly lovely.
Along this mountain side cliff to the mangrove-swamp the sun could
reach the soil, owing to the steepness and abruptness and the
changes of curves of the ground; while the soft steamy air which
came up off the swamp swathed everything, and although unpleasantly
strong in smell to us, was yet evidently highly agreeable to the
vegetation. Lovely wine palms and rafia palms, looking as if they
had been grown under glass, so deliciously green and profuse was
their feather-like foliage, intermingled with giant red woods, and
lovely dark glossy green lianes, blooming in wreaths and festoons of
white and mauve flowers, which gave a glorious wealth of beauty and
colour to the scene. Even the monotony of the mangrove-belt
alongside gave an additional charm to it, like the frame round a
picture.
As we passed on, the ridge turned N. and the mangrove line narrowed
between the hills. Our path now ran east and more in the middle of
the forest, and the cool shade was charming after the heat we had
had earlier in the day.
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