Travels Of Richard And John Lander Into The Interior Of Africa For The Discovery Of The Course And Termination Of The Niger By Robert Huish
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The Governor Of Eetcho Welcomed Them To His Town Very Civilly; Yet
His Kindness Was Not Of Any Great Extent,
And although in all
probability, he was as opulent as most chiefs on the road, yet he did
not follow
Their example in giving them provisions, but left them to
procure what they wanted for themselves, in the best manner they were
able. It is the general custom here, when any stranger of consequence
approaches Katunga, to send a messenger before him, for the purpose
of informing the king of the circumstances; and as they were
considered to be personages of consequence, one of their Jenna guides
was deputed to set out on the morrow, and in the mean time they were
to remain at Eetcho until a guard of soldiers should be sent to
escort them to Katunga. They, however, having no inclination for the
honour, as it would expose them to a thousand little inconveniences,
determined to avoid them all by leaving the place by moonlight.
An extraordinary instance of mortality is here mentioned by Richard
Lander, who says, "that not less than one hundred and sixty governors
of towns and villages, between this place and the seacoast, all
belonging to Youriba, have died from natural causes, or have been
slain in war, since I was last here, and that of the inhabited places
through which we have passed, not more than half a dozen chiefs are
alive at this moment, who received and entertained me on my return to
Badagry three years ago."
On the night of the 12th, they were visited by a tornado, and in the
morning it rained so heavily, that even if they had not been obliged
to remain in Eetcho that day, it would have been next impossible to
have pursued their journey. The celebrated market of this place may
be said to commence about mid-day, at which time, thousands of buyers
and sellers were assembled in a large open space in the heart of the
town, presenting the most busy, bustling scene imaginable. To say
nothing of the hum and clatter of such a multitude of barbarians, the
incessant exertions of a horrid band of native musicians rendered
their own voices inaudible. People from Katunga and other towns of
less importance, flocked into Eetcho to attend the market held on
this day, which they were informed was not so well attended as on
former occasions; the rain that had fallen, and the alleged danger
which besets the path, having prevented many thousands from leaving
their own abodes. Country cloth, indigo, provision, &c., were offered
for sale, but they observed nothing in the market worthy of notice.
Orders were given by the governor that the town should be well
guarded during the night, for fear of its being attacked whilst the
travellers were in it, and it was given out that any one found
loitering outside the walls after sunset, would be seized without
ceremony, and his effects taken from him.
A very ungallant custom prevails at Eetcho, which is, that every
woman, who attends the market for the purpose of selling any article,
is obliged to pay a tax of ten kowries to the governor, whilst any
individual of the other sex is allowed to enter the town, and vend
commodities publicly without paying any duty whatever.
On Thursday May 13th, they arose at a very early hour to undertake
the journey to Katunga, which was rather long, and they hoped not
only to reach that city before the heat became oppressive, but also
to avoid, if possible the escort, which they had every reason to
suppose the king would send out to meet them. Notwithstanding,
however, their most strenuous exertions, it was six o'clock before
they were all ready to depart. The air was cooler than they had felt
it since landing from the Clinker, the thermometer being as low as
71 deg. in the shade. The natives appeared to feel this severity of the
weather most keenly, for although they huddled themselves up in their
warmest cotton dresses, they were yet shivering with cold. Hundreds
of people, and it would perhaps not be overrating the number to say
thousands, preceded and followed them on the pathway; and as they
winded through thick forests, along narrow roads, their blue and
white clothing contrasted with the deep green of the ancient trees,
produced an eminently pleasing effect. After a hasty ride of two
hours, they came in sight of the town of Eetcholee, outside of which
were numerous trees, and underneath their widely spreading branches,
were observed various groups of people seated on the turf taking
refreshment. They joined the happy party, partook of a little corn
and water, which was their usual travelling fare, and then renewed
their journey in good spirits. They had not, however, proceeded a
great way, when the escort, about which they had been so uneasy, was
descried at a distance, and as they approached at a rapid pace, they
joined the party in a very few minutes. There was no great reason
after all, for their modesty to be offended either at the splendour
or numbers of their retinue, for happily it consisted only of a few
ragged individuals on foot, and eight on horseback; with the latter
was a single drummer, but the former could boast of having in their
train, men with whistles, drums and trumpets.
Richard Lander sounded his bugle, at which the natives were
astonished and pleased; but a black trumpeter jealous of the
performance, challenged a contest for the superiority of the
respective instruments, which terminated in an entire defeat of the
African, who was hooted and laughed at by his companions for his
presumption, and gave up the trial in despair. Amongst the
instruments used on this occasion, was a piece of iron, in shape
exactly resembling the bottom of a parlour fire shovel. It was played
on by a thick piece of wood and produced sounds infinitely less
harmonious than "marrow-bones and cleavers."
The leader of the escort was a strange looking, powerful fellow, and
might very well serve the writer of a romance as the hero of his
tale, in the character of keeper of an enchanted castle, when fierce,
scowling looks, terrific frowns, and a peculiarly wild expression of
countenance are intended to be naturally described, for the man's
stature was gigantic; his eyes large, keen, piercing, and ever in
motion, his broad nose squatted over both cheeks; his lips immensely
large, exposing a fine set of teeth; the beard was thick, black and
gristly, and covering all the lower part of his face, reached to his
bosom; the famous Blue Beard was nothing to him; and in gazing on his
features, the observer might almost be inclined to believe, that all
the most iniquitous and depraved passions of human nature were
centered in his heart.
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