Travels Of Richard And John Lander Into The Interior Of Africa For The Discovery Of The Course And Termination Of The Niger By Robert Huish
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On Attaining The Summit Of The Hill,
The Coup D'oeil Was Magnificent Indeed, And The Fog Having Been
Dispersed By The Sun, The Eye Was Enabled To Range Over An Extensive
Horizon, Bounded By Hills And Mountains Of Wonderful Shapes.
Some of
them bore a very striking resemblance to the Table mountain at the
Cape of Good Hope, and another was not unlike the Lion's Head and
Rump of the same place.
Their course was north-east, and those two
mountains bore due west from them. There was no continued range of
hills, but numbers of single unconnected ones, with extensive valleys
between them. In some places, several were piled behind each, and
those most distant from them appeared like dark indistinct clouds.
Nothing could surpass the singularity, and it may be added the
sublimity of the whole view from the top of the granite hill which
they had ascended, and they contemplated it silence for a few
seconds, with emotions of astonishment and rapture.
Descending the hill, they continued their journey over a noble plain,
watered with springs and rivulets, and in the afternoon entered Dufo,
a most extensive and populous town. The inhabitants appeared to be
industrious and very opulent, as far as regarded the number and
variety of their domestic animals, having abundance of sheep, goats,
swine, pigeons, and poultry, amongst the latter of which were
observed for the first time, turkeys and guinea-fowl. They had
likewise horses and bullocks. The chief did not make his appearance
for a long time, but as soon as he had introduced himself, he desired
them to follow him into a cleanly swept square, where was the house
which he intended them to occupy. Presently after his departure, he
sent them a quantity of yams, a basket of ripe bananas, and a
calabash of eggs, which they soon discovered to be good for nothing,
although sand had been mixed with them, that they might feel heavier
than they really were.
They were on this evening visited by four Burgoo traders, who
informed them that they had crossed the Niger at Inguazhilligie, not
more than fourteen days ago, and that although the rains had
commenced, the river had as yet received no great addition to its
waters.
The travellers were early on horseback, on the morning of the
27th, and preceded by the carriers of their luggage, they rode out
of the town of Dufo. The country, indeed, appeared inferior, as
to the boldness and beauty of its scenery, to that which they had
traversed on the preceding day but still it possessed features of no
common interest. Another table mountain was observed to the
left of their path in the course of the morning, as well as another
lion's head and rump. Ponderous masses of granite rock overhung
the road way; they were almost black, and seemed to have been
washed by the rains of a thousand years; in many of them were
deep and gloomy caverns, which, were they in Cornwall instead
of in central Africa, they would be selected by some novel-monger,
as the scene of some dark and mysterious murder, or as the
habitation of a gang of banditti, or perhaps of the ghost of some
damsel, who might have deliberately knocked her brains out against
some rocky protuberance, on account of a faithless lover. They were
followed a long while by hundreds of the natives, and who annoyed
them so much by their noises and curiosity, that they were compelled
to resort to violent measures to drive them away; but this was a line
of conduct rarely adopted towards them, and never without extreme
reluctance. They were at length frightened away, and they saw them no
more. About eight miles from Dufo, they arrived at a large straggling
village, called Elokba, where they halted a little, as the path had
been so stony, rugged, and irregular, that a few minutes rest was
absolutely necessary to recruit themselves. From this place the road
became excellent, not at all inferior to a drive round a nobleman's
park in England, and continued to be good till they came in sight of
a capacious walled town, called Chaadoo, which they entered about
mid-day. Outside the walls is a small Fellata village, the huts of
which are constructed in the circular or coozie form. Its
inhabitants employ themselves solely in the breeding of cattle, an
occupation to which they are passionately addicted. They are simple
in their manners, and extremely neat in their dress and appearance.
Not long after their arrival, three or four young Fellata
shepherdesses from the village came to pay their respects to the
travellers, who felt much pleased with their society, for they were
extremely well-behaved and intelligent; they remained, however, a
very short time, their customary avocation not permitting a longer
stay. The hair of these females was braided in a style peculiarly
tasteful and becoming, and the contour of their oval faces was far
from disagreeable. Their manners also were innocent and playful; the
imaginary shepherdesses of our pastorals were not more modest,
artless, and engaging in description, than these were in reality;
they left behind them an impression very favourable, both as regards
their morals, naivete, and rustic simplicity.
On the road from Dufo, Richard Lander unthinkingly shot a crane,
which fell in an adjoining field. The report of his gun brought out a
number of natives from "the bush," who being in continual dread of an
attack from "the war men of the path," imagined it to be a signal of
one of these marauders. They were all armed like their countrymen
with bows and arrows, and with a threatening aspect would have lodged
a few shafts in the person of Richard Lander, had it not been for the
timely interference of one of their Jenna messengers, who fortunately
happened to be with him at the time, and who gave an immediate and
satisfactory explanation. The head of the party then sought for and
picked up the bird, but Richard took it from him, after he had
rewarded him liberally for his trouble.
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