Travels Of Richard And John Lander Into The Interior Of Africa For The Discovery Of The Course And Termination Of The Niger By Robert Huish
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The Hammock-Men Found Their
Burden Rather Troublesome, Nevertheless They Travelled At A Pretty
Quick Pace, And Between Eight And Nine O'clock, Halted At A Pleasant
And Comfortable Village Called Etudy.
The chief sent them a fowl and
four hundred kowries; but they stopped only to take a slight
refreshment, and to pay their respects.
They then proceeded through
large plantations of cotton, indigo, Indian corn, and yams, and over
stony fields, till between ten and eleven, when they entered the town
of Chouchou. They were almost immediately introduced to the chief,
and from him into a ruinous hut, in a more filthy state than can be
imagined. No pigstye was ever half so bad. Its late occupier had
incurred the displeasure and hatred of the chief, because he happened
to be very rich, and rather than pay a heavy fine, he ran away and
joined his former enemies, and this partly accounted for the
destitution and wretchedness around them.
Since leaving Jenna they met an incredible number of persons visited
with the loss of one eye. They assigned no other reason for their
misfortune, than the heat and glare of the rays of the sun.
During the whole of this night it rained most heavily; but their hut,
although of the very worst description, had a pretty good thatched
roof, and sheltered them better than they could have expected. There
are seasons and periods in our life-time, in which we feel a happy
complacency of temper and an inward satisfaction, cheerfulness, and
joy, for which we cannot very well account, but which constrain us to
be at peace with ourselves and our neighbours, and in love with all
the works of God. In this truly enviable frame of mind, Richard
Lander says he awoke on this morning, to proceed onwards on
horseback. It was a morning, which was fairly entitled to the epithet
of incense breathing; for the variety of sweet-smelling perfumes,
which exhaled after the rain, from forest flowers and flowering
shrubs, was delicious and almost overpowering. The scenery which
gratified their eyes on this day, was more interesting and lovely,
than any they had heretofore beheld. The path circled round a
magnificent, cultivated valley, hemmed in on almost every side with
mountains of granite of the most grotesque and irregular shapes, the
summits of which were covered with stunted trees, and the hollows in
their slopes occupied by clusters of huts, whose inmates had fled
thither as a place of security against the ravages of the warmen
who infest the plains. A number of strange birds resorted to this
valley, many of whose notes were rich, full, and melodious, while
others were harsh and disagreeable, but, generally speaking, the
plumage was various, splendid, and beautiful. The modest partridge
appeared in company with the magnificent balearic crane, with his
regal crest, and delicate humming birds hopped from twig to twig,
with others of an unknown species; some of them were of a dark,
shining green; some had red silky wings and purple bodies; some were
variegated with stripes of crimson and gold, and these chirped and
warbled from among the thick foliage of the trees. In the
contemplation of such beautiful objects as these, all so playful and
so happy, or the more sublime ones of dark waving forests, plains of
vast extent, or stupendous mountains, that gave the mind the most
sensible emotions of delight and grandeur, leading it insensibly
"To look from nature up to nature's God."
Speaking on these subjects, Lander very feelingly expresses himself,
"For myself," he says, "I am passionately fond of them, and have
regretted a thousand times, that my ignorance incapacitated me from
giving a proper representation of them, or describing the simplest
flower that adorns the plains, or the smallest insect that sparkles
in the air. This consideration gives me at times many unhappy
reflections, although my defective education arose from circumstances
over which my boyhood had no control."
Having passed through the immense valley already mentioned, they had
not travelled far before they arrived and halted at a large village
called Tudibu; here they rested a while, and then continuing their
journey for two hours over even ground between high hills, they rode
into the town of Gwen-dekki, in which they purposed passing the
night. The chief was either very poor or very ill natured, for the
only thing he sent them was a little boiled yam, with a mess of
unpalatable gravy, which he would not have given, if he had not
expected ten times its value in return. Divine service, it being
Sunday, was performed in the course of the day, and this was a duty,
which to persons in their situation, was found inconceivably
pleasant. It rendered them happy and resigned in the midst or their
afflictions and privations; reposing their confidence in the
all-protecting arm of that beneficent Being, who is the author and
disposer of their destinies, and in whom alone, thus widely separated
as they were from home, and kindred and civilization, the solitary
wanderer can place his trust.
On the morning of Monday the 26th April, a thick mist obscured the
horizon, and hid in deep shade the mountains and the hills; every
object indeed was invisible, with the exception of the pathway and
the trees growing on each side, which they could hardly distinguish
as they passed along. It continued hazy for two hours after leaving
Gwen-dekki, when the mist dispersed and the atmosphere became clear.
Preparatory to ascending a steep granite hill, they halted to refresh
their horses under the branches of a high spreading tree, near a town
called Eco. Here they were visited by several of the inhabitants,
who, as soon as they were informed of their arrival, came flocking to
the spot. They formed themselves into a line to pay their respects,
and entreated them to wait a little for the arrival of their chief,
who was momentarily expected. But after staying as long as they
conveniently could, and no chief appearing, they mounted their beasts
and began the toilsome ascent.
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