Travels Of Richard And John Lander Into The Interior Of Africa For The Discovery Of The Course And Termination Of The Niger By Robert Huish
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As It Was, I
Smothered My Rising Choler, And With My Brother Quietly Followed The
Chief, To His Principal Hut, Under Whose Verandah We Were Served With
Goora Nuts In A Huge Pewter Platter."
Presently the chief squatted himself down on a handsome rush mat, of
native manufacture, and they were desired to sit by him, on an
elegant Turkey carpet, which had been laid there for the purpose.
He
was rather fancifully dressed; and wore two tobes, the one nearest
the skin being of black silk velvet, and the other of crimson velvet,
lined with sarsenet; his boots were of yellow leather, neatly worked,
and his wrists were loaded with bracelets of silver and copper. The
countenance of the chief betrayed much seriousness and solidity, and
the diverting laugh of his countrymen was suspended by a sober
cheerfulness. Many of his wives sat behind him in rows, some of whom
were of a bright copper colour, indeed a great number of the
inhabitants of Larro have fairer complexions than mulattoes. The yard
of the hut was crammed full of curious and inquisitive people, who
stood with open mouths during the audience. The chief wished to
imprint strongly on their minds his own dignity and power; he said he
was greater than the governor of Jenna, inasmuch as the latter was a
slave to the king of Katunga, but himself was a free man. He would
give them permission to depart to-morrow, he continued, and in the
mean time would supply them with provisions. The chief was as good as
his word, for shortly after they had quitted the hut they received a
goat and some game, and he returned their visit in the cool of the
evening. It appeared that it was not his general practice to drink
spirituous liquors in presence of his people, as it may be against
the law to do so, for having carefully excluded all prying eyes from
their dwelling, and ordered a mat to be hung over the door-way, he
even then turned his face to the wall, whenever he attempted to
swallow the brandy that was offered to him. He remained with them
rather better than an hour. On the presentation of the chief to them,
a religious ceremony was performed, which was not observed in any
other part of the country. A chapter from the Koran was repeated to
him by a mahommedan priest, to which both he and his people seemed to
pay great attention.
Public schools are established in the town of Larro, for the avowed
purpose of teaching the rising generation the rudiments of the
mahommedan religion.
A singular custom prevails in the town, of compelling children at the
breast to swallow a quantity of cold water from a calabash. An infant
was nearly choked on this morning by the injection of more than a
pint of water down its throat. Whether the mothers follow this custom
for the purpose of curing the children of any imaginary complaints,
or, as is more probable, in the hope of rendering them less eager for
their natural food, was not exactly to be ascertained.
The inhabitants possess horses, asses, and mules, though not in any
considerable numbers, they have, however, great abundance of sheep
and goats, which are bred in the town; and their yards and huts are
the common place of resort for those animals, indeed they may be said
to grow up and live with the children of their owners. The Landers
amused themselves during the greater part of the day, in looking at
the gambols of some very handsome goats, which had strayed into their
abode, but the sheep were not near so tame or frolicsome, repelling
all the advances towards a more familiar acquaintance, by timidity
and ill nature. Shrimps and fish, which are caught in the streams in
the vicinity of the town, are daily exposed for sale, and the
inhabitants appear to be in possession of a greater share of the
necessaries and comforts of life, than their neighbours of the sea
coast.
They this day observed the country to be sensibly rising, and
agriculture appeared to be conducted on a regular system, which was
an evident proof of the active and industrious habits of the people.
The gloomy fastnesses and wildnesses of nature, such as they passed
on the first day or two of their journey from Badagry, were less
common as they advanced, and open glades with plantations of bananas,
fields of yams and Indian corn, all neatly fenced, met their view
from the path of yesterday as well as on the present day. The
inhabitants of Larro also exhibit greater cleanliness of person and
tidiness of apparel than the tribes nearer the sea-shore. Those pests
also, the unfortunate beggars, entirely disappeared, for the
inhabitants of Larro appeared to possess too much pride to beg.
It was at Larro that the two brothers began to feel the relaxing
influence of the climate, but still their hearts were good, and they
hoped, by the blessing of Heaven, that their progress through the
country might not be impeded by sickness.
On Tuesday, April 6th, the sun had scarcely risen above the horizon,
and the mists of the morning yet hung upon the hills, than they
quitted the town of Larro, and pursued their journey on horseback.
Three horsemen from Jenna followed them on the path, and they were
enlivened by the wild jingling of their animals' bells, till they got
within a mile of that town, where they alighted at a kind of
turnpike, and fired a salute of two muskets. Here they were met by a
number of fellows with horns, who blew on them with the accustomed
energy of the natives; these men preceded them over a bridge, which
was thrown across a moat that surrounds Jenna into the centre of the
town, where they again alighted, and waited the chief's pleasure in
an open shed. They had not been seated many seconds before an immense
crowd of people pressed in upon them on every side, subjecting them
to the accustomed inconvenience of want of air, strong unwholesome
smells, and a confused hubbub, that defies description.
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