Its Flying Is Beautifully Novel And Curious; It Runs On
The Ground, And Now And Then Stops And Rises About
Fifteen feet from the
surface, giving, as it ascends, two or three short slow whistles, when
it opens its graceful
Tail and darts down to the ground, uttering
another series of melodious whistles, but much quicker than when it
rises.
We continued our march over nearly the same sort of country, but all was
now flat as far as the eye could see, the hills being left behind us.
About eight miles from Furfouwy, we came to a large patch of date-trees,
watered by many springs, but all of them hot. Under the grateful shade
of the lofty palm were flowers and fruits in commingled sweetness and
beauty. Here was the village of Dra-el-Hammah, surrounded, like all the
towns of the Jereed, with date-groves and gardens. The houses were most
humbly built of mud and bricks. After a scorching march, we encamped
just beyond, having made only ten miles. Saw quantities of bright soft
spar, called talc. Here also the ground was covered with a saline
effloresence. Near us were put up about a dozen blue cranes, the only
birds seen to-day. A gazelle was caught, and others chased. We
particularly observed huge patches of ground covered with salt, which,
at a distance, appeared just like water.
CHAPTER X.
Toser. - The Bey's Palace. - Blue Doves. - The town described. - Industry
of the People. - Sheikh Tahid imprisoned and punished. - Leghorn. - The
Boo-habeeba. - A Domestic Picture. - The Bey's Diversions. - The Bastinado. -
Concealed Treasure. - Nefta. - The Two Saints. - Departure of Santa Maria. -
Snake-charmers. - Wedyen. - Deer Stalking. - Splendid view of the Sahara. -
Revolting Acts. - Qhortabah. - Ghafsa. - Byrlafee. - Mortality among the
Camels - Aqueduct. - Remains of Udina. - Arrival at Tunis. - The Boab's
Wives. - Curiosities. - Tribute Collected. - Author takes leave of the
Governor of Mogador, and embarks for England. - Rough Weather. - Arrival
in London.
Leaving Dra-el-Hammah, after a hot march of five or six miles, we
arrived at the top of a rising ground, at the base of which was situate
the famous Toser, the head-quarters of the camp in the Jereed, and as
far as it goes. Behind the city was a forest of date-trees, and beyond
these and all around, as far as the eye could wander, was an
immeasurable waste - an ocean of sand - a great part of which we could
have sworn was water, unless told to the contrary. We were met, before
entering Toser, with some five or six hundred Arabs, who galloped before
the Bey, and fired as usual. The people stared at us Christians with
open mouths; our dress apparently astonished them. At Toser, the Bey
left his tent and entered his palace, so called in courtesy to his
Highness, but a large barn of a house, without any pretensions. We had
also a room allotted to us in this palace, which was the best to be
found in the town, though a small dark affair.
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