Sidi Amour Abeda's Hands
Ought To Be Lily-White, For Every One Who Meets Him Kisses Them With
Devout And Slavering Obeisance.
The renegade doctor of the Bey told us
that the old dervish now in question would like nothing better than to
see us English infidels burnt alive.
Fanaticism seems to be the native
growth of the human heart!
We afterwards visited the Jabeah, or well, which they show as a
curiosity, as also the camel which turns round the buckets and brings up
the water, being all sanctified, like the wells of Mecca, and the
drinking of the waters forming an indispensable part of the pilgrimage
to all holy Mohammedan cities.
We returned to the Kaed's, and sat down to a capital dinner. The old
Governor was a great fanatic, and when R. ran up to shake hands with
him, the mamelukes stopped R. for fear he might be insulted. We visited
the fortress, which was in course of repair, our _cicerone_ being Sidi
Reschid, an artillery-officer. We then returned to the camp, and found
Santa Maria, the French officer, had arrived, who, during the tour,
employed himself in taking sketches and making scientific observations.
He was evidently a French spy on the resources of the Bey. It was given
out, however, that he was employed to draw charts of Algiers, Tunis, and
Tripoli, by his Government. He endeavoured to make himself as unpopular
as some persons try to make themselves agreeable, being very jealous of
us, and every little thing that we had he used to cry for it and beg it
like a child, sometimes actually going to the Bey's tent in person, and
asking his Highness for the things which he saw had been given to us.
We went to see his Highness administer justice, which he always did,
morning and evening, whilst at Kairwan. There were many plaintiffs, but
no defendants brought up; most of them were turned out in a very summary
manner. To some, orders were given, which we supposed enabled them to
obtain redress; others were referred to the kadys and chiefs. The Bey,
being in want of camels, parties were sent out in search of them, who
drove in all the finest that they could find, which were then marked
("taba,") _a la Bey_, and immediately became the Bey's property. It was
a curious sight to see the poor animals thrown over, and the red-hot
iron put to their legs, amidst the cries and curses of their late
different owners - all which were not in the least attended to, the wants
of the Bey, or Government, being superior on such occasions of
necessity, or what not, to all complaint, law, or justice. About two
hundred changed hands in this way.
The Bey of Tunis has an immense number of camels which he farms out. He
has overseers in certain districts, to whom he gives so many camels;
these let them out to other persons for mills and agricultural labours,
at so much per head.
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