As We Journeyed Onward, We Saw Much Less Vegetation And Very Little
Cultivation.
An immense plain lay before and around us, in which,
however, there was some undulating ground.
Passed a good stone bridge;
were supplied with water near a large Arab encampment, around which were
many droves of camels; turned up several hares, partridges, and
gazelles. One of the last gave us a good chase, but the greyhounds
caught him; in the first half mile, he certainly beat them by a good
half of the instance, but having taken a turn which enabled the dogs to
make a short cut, and being blown, they pulled the swift delicate
creature savagely down. There were several good courses after hares,
though her pursuers gave puss no fair play, firing at her before the
dogs and heading her in every possible way.
Rode to Kairwan. Few Christians arrive in this city. Prince Pueckler
Muskau was the fourth when he visited it in 1835. The town is clean, but
many houses are in ruins. The greater part of a regiment of the Nitham
are quartered here. The famous mosque, of course, we were not allowed to
enter, but many of its marble pillars and other ornaments, we heard from
Giovanni, were the spoils of Christian churches and Pagan temples. The
house of the Kaed was a good specimen of dwellings in this country.
Going along a street, we were greatly surprised at seeing our
attendants, among whom were Si Smyle (a very intelligent and learned
man, and who taught Mr. R. Arabic during the tour) and the Bash-Boab,
jumping off their horses, and, running up to an old-looking Moor, and
then seizing his hand, kissed it; and for some time they would not leave
the ragged ruffian-like saint.
At last, having joined us, they said he was Sidi Amour Abeda, a man of
exceeding sanctity, and that if the Bey had met the saint, his Highness
must have done the same. The saint accompanied us to the Kaed's house;
and, on entering, we saw the old Kaed himself, who was ill and weeping
on account of the arrival of his son, the commander of a portion of the
guards of the camp. We went up stairs, and sat down to some sweetmeats
which had been prepared for us, together with Si Smyle and Hamda, but,
as we were commencing, the saint, who was present, laid hold of the
sweets with his hands, and blessed them, mumbling _bismillas_ [33] and
other jargon. We afterwards saw a little house, in course of erection by
order of the Bey, where the remains of Sidi Amour Abeda are to be
deposited at his death, so that the old gentleman can have the pleasure
of visiting his future burial-place. In this city, a lineal descendant
of the Prophet, and a lucky guesser in the way of divining, are the
essential ingredients in the composition of a Moorish saint. Saints of
one order or another are as thick here as ordinary priests in Malta,
whom the late facetious Major Wright was accustomed to call
_crows_ - from their black dress - but better, cormorants, as agreeing
with their habits of fleecing the poor people.
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