Besides, On Our Arrival At The Camp,
All The Money In Europe Could Not Have Purchased Us The Required
Comforts, Or Rather Necessaries, To Preserve Our Health.
Cold makes
everybody very selfish.
We were exceedingly touched on hearing of the
death of a little girl, whom we saw driven out of a kitchen, in which
the poor helpless little thing had taken refuge from the inclemency of
the weather.
Santa Maria arrived from Ghabs without accident, having scarcely seen a
soul the whole of the way. He certainly was an enterprizing fellow,
worthy of imitation. He calculated the distance from Ghabs to Toser at
200 miles. There are a number of towns in the districts of Ghabs better
built than those of Nefta and Toser; Ghabs river is also full of water
and the soil of the country is very fertile. The dates are not so good
as those of the Jereed. Ghabs is about 130 miles from Ghafsa. We here
took our farewell of Santa Maria; he went to Beja, the head-quarters of
the summer-camp: thence, of course, he would proceed to Algiers, to give
an account of his _espionage_. Next season, he said, he would go to
Tripoli and Ghadames; he had been many years in North Africa, and spoke
Arabic fluently.
We next marched to Byrlafee, about twenty miles, and ninety-one from
Toser, where there are the ruins of an old town. The weather continued
cold and most wintry. Here is a very ancient well still in use.
Fragments of cornices and pillars are strewn about. The foundations of
houses, and some massive stone towers, which from their having a pipe up
the centre, must have had something to do with regulating the water, are
all that remain.
We had now much wind, but no rain. A great many camels and horses
perished. Altogether, the number of camels that died on the return of
the camp, was 550. The price of a camel varies from 60 to 200 piastres.
Many good ones were sold at the camp for eighty piastres each, or about
two pounds ten shillings, English money. A good sheep was disposed of
for four or five piastres, or about three shillings. There were also
some ludicrous sales. A horse in the extremities of nature, or near to
the _articulo mortis_, was sold for a piastre, eight pence; a camel, in
a like situation, was sold for a piastre and a half. A tolerably good
horse in Tunis sells at from 800 to 1000 piastres.
There are the remains of an aqueduct at Gilma, and several other
buildings, the capitals of the pillars being elaborately worked. It is
seen that nearly the entire surface of Tunis is covered with remains of
aqueducts, Roman, Christian, and Moorish. If railways be applied to this
country - the French, are already talking about forming one from Algiers
to Blidah, across the Mitidjah - unquestionably along the lines will be
constructed ducts for water, which could thus be distributed over the
whole country. Instead of the camels of the "Bey of the Camp" carrying
water from Tunis to the Jereed, the railway would take from Zazwan, the
best and most delicious water in the Regency, to the dry deserts of the
Jereed, with the greatest facility. As to railways paying in this
country, the resources of Tunis, if developed, could pay anything.
Marching onwards about eighteen miles, we encamped two or three beyond
an old place called Sidi-Ben-Habeeba. A man murdered a woman from
jealousy in the camp, but made his escape. Almost every eminence we
passed was occupied with the remains of some ancient fort, or temple.
There was a good deal of corn in small detached patches, but it must be
remembered, the north-western provinces are the corn-districts.
In the course of the following three days, we reached Sidi-Mahammedeah,
where are the magnificent remains of Udina. After about an hour's halt,
and when all the tents had been comfortably pitched, the Bey astonished
us with an order to continue our march, and we pursued our way to
Momakeeah, about thirty miles, which we did not reach until after dark.
We passed, for some three or four hours, through a flight of locusts,
the air being darkened, and the ground loaded with them. At a little
distance, a flight of locusts has the appearance of a heavy snow-storm.
These insects rarely visit the capital; but, since the appearance of
those near Momakeeah, they have been collected in the neighbourhood of
the city, cooked, and sold among the people. Momakeeah is a countryhouse
belonging to the Bey, to whom, also, belongs a great portion of the land
around. There is a large garden, laid out in the Italian style attached
to this country-seat.
On arriving at Tunis, we called at the Bardo as we passed, and saw the
guard mounting. There was rather a fine band of military music; Moorish
musicians, but playing, after the European style, Italian and Moorish
airs.
We must give here some account of our Boab's domestic concerns. He
boasted that he had had twenty-seven wives, his religion allowing four
at once, which he had bad several times; he was himself of somewhat
advanced years. According to him, if a man quarrels with his wife, he
can put her in prison, but must, at the same time, support her. A
certain quantity of provision is laid down by law, and he must give her
two suits, or changes, of clothes a year. But he must also visit her
once a week, and the day fixed is Friday. If the wife wishes to be
separated, and to return to her parents, she must first pay the money
which he may demand, and must also have his permission, although he
himself may send her to her parents whenever he chooses, without
assigning any reason. He retains the children, and he may marry again.
The woman is generally expected to bring her husband a considerable sum
in the way of dowry, but, on separation, she gets nothing back.
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