We Saw No More Of Them; But Our
Want Of Success Was Not Surprising, Silence Not Being In The Least
Attended To, And Our Party Was Far Too Large.
The Arabs have such a
horrible habit of vociferation, that it is a wonder they ever take any
game at all.
About the hills was scattered a great variety of aromatic
plants, quantities of shells, and whole oyster-beds, looking almost as
fresh as if they had been found by the sea-side.
On our return from Toser, we had an extensive view of the Sahara, an
ocean as far as the eye could see, of what one would have taken his oath
was water, the shores, inlets, and bays being clearly defined, but, in
reality, nothing but salt scattered on the surface. Several islets were
apparently breaking its watery expanse, but these also were only heaps
of sand raised from the surrounding flat. The whole country, hills,
plains and deserts, gave us an idea as if the materials had been thrown
together for manufacture, and had never been completed. Nevertheless
these savage deserts of boundless extent are as complete in their kind
as the smiling meadows and fertile corn-fields of England, each being
perfect in itself, necessary to the grand whole of creation, and forming
an essential portion of the works of Divine Providence.
The Sheikh Tahib's gardens were sold for 15,000 piastres, his wife also
added to this 1,000, and he was set at liberty. The dates have been
coming in to a great amount. There are many different kinds. The
principal are: - Degalah, the most esteemed, which are very sweet and
almost transparent. Captain B. preferred the Trungah, another first-rate
sort, which are plum-shaped, and taste something like a plum. There are
also the Monachah, which are larger than the other two, dryer and more
mealy, and not so sweet as Degalah, and other sorts. The dates were very
fine, though in no very great abundance, the superior state of ripeness
being attributed to there only being a single day of rain during the
past year in the Jereed. Rain is bad for the dates, but the roots of the
tree cannot have too much water.
The tent-pitchers of the camp went round and performed, in mask, actions
of the most revolting description, some being dressed as women, and
dancing in the most lascivious and indecent manner. One fellow went up
to R., who was just on the point of knocking him down, when, seeing the
Treasurer of the Bey cracking his sides with laughter, he allowed the
brute to go off under such high patronage. It was even said that these
fellows were patronized by his Highness. But, on all Moorish feastdays,
lascivious actions of men and women are an indispensable part of their
entertainment. This is the worst side of the character of the Moors. The
Moorish women were never so profligate as since the arrival of the
French in Algeria.
One of the greatest chiefs, Sultan Kaed, of the Hammama has just died.
He was an extremely old man, and it is certain that people live to a
good old age in this burning clime. During his life, he had often
distinguished himself, and lastly against the French, before
Constantina. Whilst in the hills one day, we came suddenly upon a set of
Arabs, about nine in number, who took to their heels on seeing us. A man
has just been killed near this place, probably by the same gang. For
robbery and murder, no hills could be better fitted, the passes being so
intricate, and the winds and turns so sudden and sharp. The Sheikh Ali
brought in two loteds, a female and its young one, which he had shot.
The head of the loted is like a deer's, but the eye is further up: it is
about a fallowdeer's size. The female has not the beard like a goat, but
long hair, reaching from the head to the bottom of the chest, and over
the fore-legs. These loteds were taken in consequence of an order from
the Bey, that they should not return without some.
On our march back to Tunis, we encamped for two days by the foot of a
range of hills at Sheesheeah, about ten miles off. The water, brought
from some distance, was bad and salt.
We proceeded to Ghortabah, our old place. Two of the prisoners (about
twelve of whom we had with us), and one of the Turks, died from the
excessive heat. The two couriers that were sent with despatches for the
Government were attacked near this place by the Arabs, and the horse of
one was so injured, that it was necessary to kill him; the man who rode
the horse was also shot through the leg. This was probably in revenge
for the exactions of the Bey of the Camp on the tribes.
On our return to Ghafsa, we had rain, hail, and high wind, and
exceedingly cold - a Siberian winter's day on the verge of the scorching
desert. The ground, where there was clay, very slippery; the camels
reeled about as if intoxicated. The consequence was, it was long before
the tents came up, and we endured much from this sudden change of the
weather. Our sufferings were, however, nothing as compared to others,
for during the day, ten men were brought in dead, from the cold (three
died four days before from heat), principally Turks; and, had there been
no change in the temperature, we cannot tell how many would have shared
the same fate. Many of the camels, struggling against the clayey soil,
could not come up.
Eight more men were shortly buried, and three were missing. The sudden
transition from the intense heat of the one day to the freezing cold of
the next, probably gave the latter a treble power, producing these
disastrous effects, the poor people being sadly ill-clad, and quite
unprepared for such extreme rigour.
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