The Bey
And His Ministers And Mamelukes Amused Themselves With Shooting At A
Mark.
The Bey made some good hits.
The Bey and his mamelukes also took diversion in spoiling the appearance
of a very nice young horse; they daubed hieroglyphics upon his shoulders
and loins, and dyed the back where the saddle is placed, and the three
legs below the knee with henna, making the other leg look as white as
possible. Another grey horse, a very fine one, was also cribbed. We may
remark here, that there were very few fine horses to be met with, all
the animals looking poor and miserable, whilst these few fine ones fell
into the hands of the Bey. It is probable, however, that the Arabs kept
their best and most beautiful horses out of the way, while the camp was
moving among them.
The old Sheikh still continued in prison. The bastinadoes with which he
had been treated were inflicted on his bare person, cold water being
applied thereto, which made the punishment more severe. After receiving
one hundred, he said he would shew his hiding-place; and some people
being sent with him, dug a hole where he pointed out, but without coming
to anything. This was done several times, but with the same effect. He
was then locked up in chains till the following morning. Millions of
dollars lie buried by the Arabs at this moment in different parts of
Barbary, especially in Morocco, perhaps the half of which will never be
found, the owners of them having died before they could point out their
hoarded treasures to their relatives, as but a single person is usually
in the secret. Money is in this way buried by tribes, who have nothing
whatever to fear from their sovereigns and their sheikhs; they do it
from immemorial custom. It is for this reason the Arabs consider that
under all ancient ruins heaps of money are buried, placed there by men
or demons, who hold the shining hoards under their invincible spell.
They cannot comprehend how European tourists can undertake such long
journeys, merely for the purpose of examining old heaps of stones, and
making plans and pictures of such rubbish. When any person attempts to
convince the Arabs that this is the sole object, they only laugh with
incredulity.
Went to Nefta, a ride of about fourteen miles, lying somewhat nearer the
Sahara than Toser. The country on the right was undulating sand, on the
left an apparently boundless ocean, where lies, as a vast sheet of
liquid fire, when the sun shines on it, the now long celebrated Palus
Libya. In this so-called lake no water is visible, except a small marsh
like the one near Toser, where we went duck-shooting. Our party was very
respectable, consisting of the Agha of the Arabs, two or three of the
Bey's mamelukes, the Kaed of the Jereed, whose name is Braun, and fifty
or sixty Arab guards, besides ourselves. On entering Nefta, the escort
immediately entered, according to custom, a marabet (that of Sidi Bou
Aly), Captain B. and R. meanwhile standing outside.
There were two famous saints here, one of whom was a hundred years of
age. The other, Sidi Mustapha Azouz, had the character of being a very
clever and good man, which also his intelligent and benevolent
appearance betokened, and not a fanatic, like Amour Abeda of Kairwan.
There were at the time of our visit to him about two hundred people in
his courtyard, who all subsisted on his charities. We were offered
dates, kouskousou, [39] and a seed which they call sgougou, and which
has the appearance of dried apple-seed. The Arabs eat it with honey,
first dipping their fingers into the honey, and then into the seed,
which deliciously sticks to the honey. The Sheikh's saint also
distributed beads and rosaries. He gave R. a bag of sgougou-seed, as
well as some beads. These two Sheikhs are objects of most religious
veneration amongst all true believers, and there is nothing which would
not be done at their bidding.
Nefta, the Negeta of the ancients, is the frontier town of the Tunisian
territories from the south, being five days' journey, or about
thirty-five or forty leagues from the oases of Souf, and fifteen days'
from Ghadumes. Nefta is not so much a town as an agglomeration of
villages, separated from one another by gardens, and occupying an extent
of surface twice the size that of the city of Algiers. These villages
are Hal Guema, Mesaba, Zebda Ouled, Sherif, Beni Zeid, Beni Ali, Sherfa,
and Zaouweeah Sidi Ahmed.
The position of Nefta and its environs is very picturesque. Water is
here abundant. The principal source, which, under the name of Wad Nefta,
takes its rise at the north of the city, in the midst of a movement of
earth, enters the villages of Sherfa and Sidi Ahmed; divides them in
two, and fecundates its gardens planted with orange-trees, pomegranates,
and fig-trees. The same spring, by the means of ducts of earth, waters a
forest of date-trees which extends some leagues. A regulator of the
water (kaed-el-ma) distributes it to each proprietor of the plantation.
The houses of Nefta are built generally of brick; some with taste and
luxury; the interior is ornamented with Dutch tiles brought from Tunis.
Each quarter has its mosque and school, and in the centre of the group
of villages is a place called Rebot, on the banks of Wad Nefta, which
serves for a common market. Here are quarters specially devoted to the
aristocratic landed proprietors, and others to the busy merchants. The
Shereefs are the genuine nobles, or seigneurs of Nefta, from among whom
the Bey is wont to choose the Governors of the city. The complexion of
the population is dark, from its alliance with Negress slaves, like most
towns advanced in the Desert. The manners of the people are pure.
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