The Neighbouring Villages Are Belad-El-Ader, Zin,
Abbus; And The Sacred Villages Are Zaouweeat, Of Tounseea, Sidi Ali Bou
Lifu, And Taliraouee.
The Arabs of the open country, and who deposit
their grain in and trade with these villages, are Oulad Sidi Sheikh,
Oulad Sidi Abeed, and Hammania.
The dates of Toser are esteemed of the
finest quality.
Walked about the town; several of the inhabitants are very wealthy. The
dead saints are, however, here, and perhaps everywhere else in Tunis,
more decently lodged, and their marabets are real "whitewashed
sepulchres." They make many burnouses at Toser, and every house presents
the industrious sight of the needle or shuttle quickly moving. We tasted
the leghma, or "tears of the date," for the first time, and rather liked
it. On going to shoot doves, we, to our astonishment, put up a snipe.
The weather was very hot; went to shoot doves in the cool of the
evening. The Bey administers justice, morning and evening, whilst in the
Jereed. An Arab made a present of a fine young ostrich to the Bey, which
his Highness, after his arrival in Tunis, sent to R. The great man here
is the Sheikh Tahid, who was imprisoned for not having the tribute ready
for the Bey. The tax imposed is equivalent to two bunches for each
date-tree. The Sheikh has to collect them, paying a certain yearly sum
when the Bey arrives, a species of farming-out. It was said that he is
very rich, and could well find the money. The dates are almost the only
food here, and the streets are literally gravelled with their stones.
Santa Maria again returned his horse to the Bey, and got another in its
stead. He is certainly a man of _delicate_ feeling. This gentleman
carried his impudence so far that he even threatened some of the Bey's
officers with the supreme wrath of the French Government, unless they
attended better to his orders. A new Sheikh was installed, a good thing
for the Bey's officers, as many of them got presents on the occasion.
We blessed our stars that a roof was over our heads to shield us from
the burning sun. We blew an ostrich-egg, had the contents cooked, and
found it very good eating. They are sold for fourpence each, and it is
pretended that one makes an ample meal for twelve persons. We are
supplied with leghma every morning; it tastes not unlike cocoa-nut milk,
but with more body and flavour. R. very unwell, attributed it to his
taking copious draughts of the leghma. Rode out of an evening; there was
a large encampment of Arabs outside the town, thoroughly sun-burnt,
hardy-looking fellows, some of them as black as negroes. Many people in
Toser have sore eyes, and several with the loss of one eye, or nearly
so; opthalmia, indeed, is the most prevalent disease in all Barbary. The
neighbourhood of the Desert, where the greater part of the year the air
is filled with hot particles of sand, is very unfavourable to the sight;
the dazzling whiteness of the whitewashed houses also greatly injures
the eyes. But the Moors pretend that lime-washing is necessary to the
preservation of the houses from the weather, as well as from filth of
all sorts. We think really it is useful, by preventing dirty people in
many cases from being eaten up by their own filth and vermin,
particularly the Jews, the Tunisian Jews being the dirtiest persons in
the Regency. The lime-wash is the grand _sanitary_ instrument in North
Africa.
There are little birds that frequent the houses, that might be called
Jereed sparrows, and which the Arabs name boo-habeeba, or "friend of my
father;" but their dress and language are very different, having reddish
breasts, being of a small size, and singing prettily. Shaw mentions them
under the name of the Capsa-sparrow, but he is quite wrong in making
them as large as the common house-sparrow. He adds: "It is all over of a
lark-colour, excepting the breast, which is somewhat lighter, and
shineth like that of a pigeon. The boo-habeeba has a note infinitely
preferable to that of the canary, or nightingale." He says that all
attempts to preserve them alive out of the districts of the Jereed have
failed. R. has brought several home from that country, which were alive
whilst I was in Tunis. There are also many at the Bardo in cages, that
live in this way as long as other birds.
Went to see the houses of the inhabitants: they were nearly all the
same, the furniture consisting of a burnouse-loom, a couple of
millstones, and a quantity of basins, plates, and dishes, hung upon the
walls for effect, seldom being used; there were also some skins of
grain. The beams across the rooms, which are very high, are hung with
onions, dates, and pomegranates; the houses are nearly all of one story.
Some of the women are pretty, with large long black eyes and lashes;
they colour the lower lid black, which does not add to their beauty,
though it shows the bewitching orb more fully and boldly. They were
exceedingly dirty and ragged, wearing, nevertheless, a profusion of
ear-rings, armlets, anclets, bracelets, and all sorts of _lets_, with a
thousand talismanic charms hanging from their necks upon their ample
bosoms, which latter, from the habit of not wearing stays, reach as low
down as their waists. They wrap up the children in swaddling-clothes,
and carry them behind their backs when they go out.
Two men were bastinadoed for stealing a horse, and not telling where
they put him; every morning they were to be flogged until they divulged
their hiding-place.
A man brought in about a foot of horse's skin, on which was the Bey's
mark, for which he received another horse. This is always done when any
animal dies belonging to the Beys, the man in whose hands the animal is,
receiving a new one on producing the part of the skin marked.
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