The Hawk, When He Seizes The Hare With One Claw,
Catches Hold Of Any Tuft Of Grass Or Irregularity Of The Ground With The
Other; A Strong Leather Strap Is Also Fastened From One Leg To The
Other, To Prevent Them From Being Pulled Open Or Strained.
We came upon
a herd of small deer, called ebba, which are a little larger than the
gazelle, but they soon bounded beyond our pursuit, leaving us scarcely
time to admire their delicate make and unapproachable speed.
We crossed a range of hills into another plain, at the extremity of
which lies Ghafsa. The surface was naked, with the exception of tufts of
strong, rushy grass, almost a sure indication of hares, and of which we
started a great number. We saw another description of bird, called
rhaad, [36] with white wings, which flew like a pigeon, but more
swiftly. Near our tract were the remains of a large tank of ancient
Roman construction. The Bey shot a fox. Marched fourteen or fifteen
miles to Zwaneah, which means "little garden," though there is no sign
of such thing, unless it be the few oranges, dates, and pomegranates
which they find here. We had water from a tank of modern construction;
some remains were close to the camp, the ancient cistern and stone duct
leading from the hills. We had two thousand camels with the camp and
following it, for which not a single atom of provender is carried, the
camels subsisting scantily upon the coarse grass, weeds or thorns, which
the soil barely affords. The camel is very fond of sharp, prickly
thorns. You look upon the animal, with its apparently most tender mouth,
chopping the sharpest thorns it can find, full of amazement! Some of the
chiefs who have lately joined us, have brought their wives with them,
riding on camels in a sort of palanquin or shut-up machine. These
palanquins have a kind of mast and shrouds, from which a bell is slung,
tinkling with the swinging motion of the camel. This rude contrivance
makes the camel more than ever "the ship of the Desert." Several fine
horses were brought in as presents to the Bey, one a very fine mare.
Our next march was towards Ghafsa, about twenty miles off. We were
joined by a considerable number of fresh Arabs, who "played at powder,"
and kept firing and galloping before the Bey the whole day; some of them
managed themselves and their arms and horses with great address,
balancing the firelock on their heads, firing it, twisting it round,
throwing it into the air, and catching it again, and all without once
losing the command of their horses. An accident happened amidst the fun;
two of the parties came in contact, and one of them received a dreadful
gash on the forehead. The dresses of some of them were very rich, and
looked very graceful on horseback. A ride over sand-hills brought us in
view of the town, embedded in olive and date-trees, looking fresh and
green after our hot and dusty march; it lay stretched at the foot of a
range of hills, which formed the boundaries of another extensive plain.
We halted at Ghafsa, [37] which is almost a mass of rubbish filled with
dirty people, although there are plenty of springs about, principally
hot and mineral waters. Although the Moors, by their religion, are
enjoined the constant use of the bath, yet because they do not change
their linen and other clothes, they are always very dirty. They do not,
however, exceed the Maltese and Sicilians, and many other people of the
neighbourhood, in filth, and perhaps the Moors are cleaner in their
hahits than they. The Arabs are extremely disgusting, and their women
are often seen in a cold winter's evening, standing with their legs
extended over a smoky wood fire, holding up their petticoats, and
continuing in this indelicate position for hours together.
In these Thermae, or hot, sulphurous, and other mineral springs, is the
phenomenon of the existence of fish and small snakes. These were
observed by our tourists, but I shall give three other authorities
besides them. Shaw says: "'The Ouri-el-Nout,' _i.e_., 'Well of Fish,'
and the springs of Ghasa and Toser, nourish a number of small fishes of
the mullet and perch kind, and are of an easy digestion. Of the like
quality are the other waters of the Jereed, all of them, after they
become cold, being the common drink of the inhabitants." Sir Grenville
Temple remarks: "The thermometer in the water marked ninety-five
degrees; and, what is curious, a considerable number of fish is found in
this stream, which measure from four to six inches in length, and
resemble, in some degree, the gudgeon, having a delicate flavour. Bruce
mentions a similar fact, but he says he saw it in the springs of
Feriana. Part of the ancient structure of these baths still exists, and
pieces of inscriptions are observed in different places."
Mr. Honneger has made a sketch of this fish. The wood-cut represents it
one half the natural size:
[Illustration]
The snake, not noticed by former tourists, has been observed by Mr.
Honneger, which nourishes itself entirely upon the fish. The wood-cut
represents the snake half its natural size:
[Illustration]
The fish and the snake live together, though not very amicably, in the
hot-springs. Prince Puekler Muskau, who travelled in Tunis, narrates
that, "Near the ruins of Utica was a warm spring, in whose almost hot
waters we found several turtles, _which seemed to inhabit this basin_."
However, perhaps, there is no such extraordinary difficulty in the
apprehension of this phenomenon, for "The Gulf Stream," on leaving the
Gulf of Mexico, "has a temperature of more than 27 deg. (centigrade), or
80-6/10 degrees of Fahrenheit." [38]
Many a fish must pass through and live in this stream. And after all,
since water is the element of fish, and is hotter or colder in all
regions, like the air, the element of man, which he breathes, warmer or
cooler, according to clime and local circumstances - there appear to be
no physical objections in the way of giving implicit credence to our
tourists.
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