Not being transmitted from
father to son, only on the principle of age. At least, this has been the
general rule of succession for many years.
The duties of the "Bey of the Camp" is to visit with a "flying-camp,"
for the purpose of collecting tribute, the two circuits or divisions of
the Regency.
I now introduce to the reader the narrative of a Tour to the Jereed,
extracted from the notebooks of the tourists, together with various
observations of my own interspersed, and some additional account of
Toser, Nefta, and Ghafsa.
CHAPTER IX.
Tour in the Jereed of Captain Balfour and Mr. Reade. - Sidi Mohammed. -
Plain of Manouba. - Tunis. - Tfeefleeah. - The Bastinado. - Turkish
Infantry. - Kairwan. - Sidi Amour Abeda. - Saints. - A French Spy -
Administration of Justice. - The Bey's presents. - The Hobara. - Ghafsa.
Hot streams containing Fish. - Snakes. - Incantation. - Moorish Village.
The tourists were Captain Balfour, of the 88th Regiment, and Mr. Richard
Reade, eldest son of Sir Thomas Reade.
The morning before starting from Tunis they went to the Bardo to pay
their respects to Sidi Mohammed, "Bey of the Camp," and to thank him for
his condescending kindness in taking them with him to the Jereed. The
Bey told him to send their baggage to Giovanni, "Guarda-pipa," which
they did in the evening.
At nine A. M. Sidi Mohammed left the Bardo under a salute from the guns,
one of the wads of which nearly hit Captain Balfour on the head. The Bey
proceeded across the plain of Manouba, mounted on a beautiful bay
charger, in front of the colours, towards Beereen, the greater part of
the troops of the expedition following, whilst the entire plain was
covered with baggage-camels, horses, mules, and detached parties of
attendants, in glorious confusion.
The force of the camp consisted of - Mamelukes
of the Seraglio, superbly mounted 20
Mamelukes of the Skeefah, or those who
guard the entrance of the Bey's
palace, or tent, and are all Levantines 20
Boabs, another sort of guard of the Bey,
who are always about the Bey's
tent, and must be of this country 20
Turkish Infantry 300
Spahis, o. mounted Arab guards 300
Camp followers (Arabs) 2,000
- - -
Total 2,660
This is certainly not a large force, but in several places of the march
they were joined for a short time by additional Arab troops, a sort of
honorary welcome for the Bey. As they proceeded, the force of the
camp-followers increased; but, in returning, it gradually decreased, the
parties going home to their respective tribes. We may notice the total
absence of any of the new corps, the Nithalm. This may have been to
avoid exciting the prejudices of the people; however, the smallness of
the force shows that the districts of the Jereed are well-affected. The
summer camp to Beja has a somewhat larger force, the Arabs of that and
other neighbouring districts not being so loyal to the Government.
Besides the above-named troops, there were two pieces of artillery. The
band attendant on these troops consisted of two or three flageolets,
kettle-drums, and trumpets made of cow-horns, which, according to the
report of our tourists, when in full play produced the most diabolical
discord.
After a ride of about three hours, we pitched our tents at Beereen.
Through the whole of the route we marched on an average of about four
miles per hour, the horses, camels, &c., walking at a good pace. The
Turkish infantry always came up about two hours after the mounted
troops. Immediately on the tents being pitched, we went to pay our
respects to the Bey, accompanied by Giovanni, "Guardapipa," as
interpreter. His Highness received us very affably, and bade us ask for
anything we wanted. Afterwards, we took some luncheon with the Bey's
doctor, Signore Nunez Vaise, a Tuscan Jew, of whose kindness during our
whole tour it is impossible to speak too highly. The doctor had with him
an assistant, and tent to himself. Haj Kador, Sidi Shakeer, and several
other Moors, were of our luncheon-party, which was a very merry one.
About half-way to Beereen, the Bey stopped at a marabet, a small square
white house, with a dome roof, to pay his devotions to a great Marabout,
or saint, and to ask his parting blessing on the expedition. They told
us to go on, and joined us soon after. Two hours after us, the Turkish
Agha arrived, accompanied with colours, music, and some thirty men. The
Bey received the venerable old gentleman under an immense tent in the
shape of an umbrella, surrounded with his mamelukes and officers of
state. After their meeting and saluting, three guns were fired. The Agha
was saluted every day in the same manner, as he came up with his
infantry after us. We retired for the night at about eight o'clock.
The form of the whole camp, when pitched, consisting of about a dozen
very large tents, was as follows: - The Bey's tent in the centre, which
was surrounded at a distance of about forty feet with those of the
Bash-Hamba [31] of the Arabs, the Agha of the Arabs, the Sahab-el-Tabah,
Haznadar or treasurer, the Bash-Boab, and that of the English tourists;
then further off were the tents of the Katibs and Bash-Katib, the
Bash-Hamba of the Turks, the doctors, and the domestics of the Bey, with
the cookery establishment. Among the attendants of the Bey were the
"guarda-pipa," guard of the pipe, "guarda-fusile," guard of the gun,
"guarda-cafe," guard of the coffee, "guarda-scarpe," guard of the shoes,
[32] and "guarda-acqua," guard of water. A man followed the Bey about
holding in his hand a golden cup, and leading a mule, having two paniers
on its back full of water, which was brought from Tunis by camels.
