The Population, Given By Graeberg, Is Nine Thousand, But This Is
Evidently Exaggerated.
Not far off, towards the west, are some
magnificent ruins of an ancient city, called Kesar Faraoun, or "Castle
of Pharoah."
Dubdu, called also Doubouton, is an ancient, large city, of the district
of Shaous, and once the residence of an independent prince, but now
fallen into decay on account of the sterility of its site, which is upon
the sides of a barren mountain. Dubdu is three days' journey southeast
of Fez, and one day from Taza, in the region of the Mulweeah. Taza is
the capital of the well-watered district of Haiaina, and one of the
finest cities in Morocco, in a most romantic situation, placed on a rock
which is shaped like an island, and in presence of the lofty mountains
of Zibel Medghara, to the south-west. Perhaps it is the Babba of the
ancients; a river runs round the town. The houses and streets are
spacious, and there is a large mosque. The air is pure, and provisions
are excellent. The population is estimated at ten or twelve thousand,
who are hospitable, and carry on a good deal of commerce with Tlemsen
and Fez. Taza is two days from Fez, and four from Oushda.
Oushda is the well-known frontier town, on the north-east, which
acquired some celebrity during the late war. It is enclosed by the walls
of its gardens, and is protected by a large fortress. The place contains
a population of from six hundred to one thousand Moors and Arabs. There
is a mosque, as well as three chapels, dedicated to Santous. The houses,
built of clay, are low and of a wretched appearance; the streets are
winding, and covered with flints. The fortress, where the Kaed resides,
is guarded in ordinary times by a dozen soldiers; but, were this force
increased, it could not be defended, in consequence of its dilapidated
condition. A spring of excellent water, at a little distance from
Oushda, keeps up the whole year round freshness and verdure in the
gardens, by means of irrigation. Cattle hereabouts is of fine quality.
Oushda is a species of oasis of the Desert of Angad, and the aridity of
the surrounding country makes these gardens appear delicious, melons,
olives, and figs being produced in abundance.
The distance between Tlemsen and Oushda is sixteen leagues, or about
sixteen hours' march for troops; Oushda is also four or five days from
Oran, and six days from Fez. The Desert commences beyond the Mulweeah,
at more than forty leagues from Tlemsen. Like the Algerian Angad, which
extends to the south of Tlemsen, it is of frightful sterility,
particularly in summer. In this season, one may march for six or eight
hours without finding any water. It is impossible to carry on military
operations in such a country during summer. On this account, Marshal
Bugeaud soon excavated Oushda and returned to the Tlemsen territory.
Aghla is a town, or rather large village, of the district of Fez, where
the late Muley Suleiman occasionally resided. It is situated along the
river Wad Vergha, in a spacious and well-cultivated district. A great
market of cattle, wool, and bees'-wax, is held in the neighbourhood. The
country abounds in lions; but, it is pretended, of such a cowardly race,
that a child can frighten them away. Hence the proverb addressed to a
pusillanimous individual, "You are as brave as the lions of Aghla, whose
tails the calves eat." The Arabs certainly do occasionally run after
lions with sticks, or throw stones at them, as we are accustomed to
throw stones at dogs.
Nakhila, _i.e._, "little palm," is a little town of the province of
Temsna, placed in the river Gueer; very ancient, and formerly rich and
thickly populated. A great mart, or souk, is annually held at this
place. It is the site of the ancient Occath.
Meshru Khaluf, _i.e._, "ford, or watering-place of the wild-boar," in
the district of the Beni-Miskeen, is a populated village, and situated
on the right bank of the Ovad Omm-Erbergh, lying on the route of many of
the chief cities. Here is the ford of Meshra Khaluf, forty-five feet
wide, from which the village derives its name.
On the map will be seen many places called Souk. The interior tribes
resort thither to purchase and exchange commodities. The market-places
form groups of villages. It is not a part of my plan to give any
particular description of them.
Second, those places distinguished in the kingdom of Morocco, including
Sous, Draha, and Tafilett.
Tefza, a Berber name, which, according to some, signifies "sand," and to
others, "a bundle of straw," is the capital of the province of Todla,
built by the aborigines on the slope of the Atlas, who surrounded it
with a high wall of sandstone (called, also, Tefza.) At two miles east
of this is the smaller town of Efza, which is a species of suburb,
divided from Tefza by the river Derna. The latter place is inhabited
certainly by Berbers, whose women are famous for their woollen works and
weaving. Tefza is also celebrated for its native black and white woollen
manufactures. The population of the two places is stated at upwards of
10,000, including 2,000 Jews.
Pitideb, or Sitideb, is another fine town in the neighbourhood, built by
the Amazirghs on the top of a high mountain. The inhabitants are
esteemed the most civilized of their nation, and governed by their own
elders and chiefs, they live in a state of almost republican
independence. Some good native manufactures are produced, and a large
commerce with strangers is carried on. The women are reputed as being
extremely fair and fascinating.
Ghuer, or Gheu, (War, _i.e._, "difficult?") is a citadel, or rather a
strong, massive rock, and the most inaccessible of all in Morocco,
forming a portion of the mountains of Jedla, near the sources of the Wad
Omm-Erbegh.
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