Anciently, The Mountains Hereabouts Formed The African
Pillars Of Hercules Opposite To Gibraltar, Which May Be Considered The
European Pillar Of That Respectable Hero Of Antiquity.
Passing Tangier after a day's journey, we come to Arzila or Asila, in
the province of Hasbat, which is an ancient Berber city, and which, when
conquered by the Romans, was named first Zilia and afterwards Zulia,
_Constantia Zilis_.
It is placed on the naked shores of the Atlantic,
and has a little port. Whilst possessed by the Portuguese, it was a
place of considerable strength, but its fortifications being, as usual,
neglected by the Moors, are now rapidly decaying. [20] The population is
about one thousand. The country around produces good tobacco. The next
town on the Atlantic, after another day's journey southwards, is El
Araish, _i.e._, the trellices of vines; vulgarly called Laratsh. This
city replaces the ancient Liscas or Lixus and Lixa, whose ruins are
near. The Arabs call it El-Araish Beai-Arous, _i.e._, the vineyards of
the Beni-Arous, a powerful tribe, who populate the greater part of the
district of Azgar, of which it is the capital and the residence of the
Governor. It was, probably, built by this tribe about 1,200 or 1,300,
AD. El-Araish contains a population of 2,700 Moors, and 1,300 Jews, or
4,000 souls; but others give only 2,000 for the whole amount, of which
250 are Jews. It has a garrison of 500 troops. The town is situate upon
a small promontory stretching into the sea, and along the mouth of the
river Cos, or Luccos (Loukkos), which forms a secure port, but of so
difficult access, that vessels of two hundred tons can scarcely enter
it. In winter, the roadstead is very bad; [21] the houses are
substantially built; and the fortifications are good, because made by
the Spaniards, who captured this place in 1610, but it was re-taken by
Muley Ishmael in 1689. The climate is soft and delicious. In the
environs, cotton is cultivated, and charcoal is made from the Araish
forest of cork-trees. El-Araish exports cork, wool, skins, bark, beans,
and grain, and receives in exchange iron, cloth, cottons, muslins, sugar
and tea. The lions and panthers of the mountains of Beni Arasis
sometimes descend to the plains to drink, or carry off a supper of a
sheep or bullock. Azgar, the name of this district, connects it with one
of the powerful tribes of the Touaricks; and, probably, a section of
this tribe of Berbers were resident here at a very early period (at the
same time the Berber term _ayghar_ corresponds to the Arabic _bahira_,
and signifies "plain.")
The ancient Lixus deserves farther mention on account of the interest
attached to its coins, a few of which remain, although but very recently
deciphered by archeologists. There are five classes of them, and all
Phoenician, although the city now under Roman rule, represents the
vineyard riches of this part of ancient Mauritania by two bunches of
grapes, so that, after nearly three thousand years, the place has
retained its peculiarity of producing abundant vines, El-Araish, being
"the vine trellices;" others have stamped on them "two ears of corn" and
"two fishes," representing the fields of corn waving on the plains of
Morocco, and the fish (shebbel especially) which fills its northern
rivers.
Strabo says: - "Mauritania generally, excepting a small part desert, is
rich and fertile, well watered with rivers and washed with lakes;
abounding in all things, and producing trees of great dimensions."
Another writer adds "this country produces a species of the vine whose
trunk the extended arms of two men cannot embrace, and which yields
grapes of a cubit's length." "At this city," says Pliny, "was the palace
of Antaeus, and his combat with Hercules and the gardens of Hesperides."
Mehedia or Mamora, and sometimes, Nuova Mamora, is situate upon the
north-western slope of a great hill, some four feet above the sea, upon
the left bank of the mouth of the Sebon, and at the edge of the
celebrated plain and forest of Mamora, belonging to the province of
Beni-Hassan. According to Marmol, Mamora was built by Jakob-el-Mansour
to defend the embouchure of the river. It was captured by the Spaniards
in 1614, and retaken by the Moors in 1681. The Corsairs formerly took
refuge here. It is now a weak and miserable place, commanded by an old
crumbling-down castle. There are five or six hundred fishermen,
occupying one hundred and fifty cabins, who make a good trade of the
Shebbel salmon; it has a very small garrison. The forest of Mamora,
contains about sixty acres of fine trees, among which are some splendid
oaks, all suitable for naval construction.
Salee or Sala, a name which this place bore antecedently to the Roman
occupation, is a very ancient city, situate upon the right bank of the
river Bouragrag, and near its mouth. This place was captured in 1263, by
Alphonso the Wise, King of Castille, who was a short time after
dispossessed of his conquest by the King of Fez; and the Moorish Sultans
have kept it to the present time, though the city itself has often
attempted to throw off the imperial yoke. The modern Salee is a large
commercial and well-fortified city of the province of Beni-Hassan. Its
port is sufficiently large, but, on account of the little depth of
water, vessels of large burden cannot enter it. The houses and public
places are tolerably well-built. The town is fortified by a battery of
twenty-four pieces of cannon fronting the sea, and a redoubt at the
entrance of the river. What navy the Maroquines have, is still laid up
here, but the dock-yard is now nearly deserted, and the few remaining
ships are unserviceable. The population, all of whom are Mahometans, are
now, as in Corsair times, the bitterest and most determined enemies of
Christians, and will not permit a Christian or Jew to reside among them.
The amount of this population, and that of Rabat, is thus given,
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