Count Graberg Pretends Gomera
Now Contains Three Thousand Inhabitants!
Whilst other writers, and of
later date, represent this ancient city, which has flourished and played
an important part through many ages, as entirely abandoned, and the
abode of serpents and hyaenas.
Gellis is a small port, six miles east of
Velez de Gomera.
Tegaza is a small town and port, at two miles or less from the sea near
Pescadores Point, inhabited mostly by fishermen, and containing a
thousand souls.
The provinces of Rif and Garet, containing these maritime towns are rich
and highly cultivated, but inhabited by a warlike and semi-barbarous
race of Berbers, over whom the Emperor exercises an extremely precarious
authority. Among these tribes, Abd-el-Kader sought refuge and support
when he was obliged to retire from Algeria, and, where he defied all the
power of the Imperial government for several months. Had the Emir
chosen, he could have remained in Rif till this time; but he determined
to try his strength with the Sultan in a pitch battle, which should
decide his fate.
The savage Rifians assemble for barter and trade on market-days, which
are occasions of fierce and incessant quarrels among themselves, when it
is not unusual for two or three persons to be left dead on the spot.
Should any unfortunate vessel strike on these coasts, the crew find
themselves in the hands of inhuman wreckers. No European traveller has
ever visited these provinces, and we may state positively that
journeying here is more dangerous than in the farthest wastes of the
Sahara. Spanish renegades, however, are found among them, who have
escaped from the _praesidios_, or penal settlements. The Rif country is
full of mines, and is bounded south by one of the lesser chains of the
Atlas running parallel with the coast. Forests of cork clothe the
mountain-slopes; the Berbers graze their herds and flocks in the deep
green valleys, and export quantities of skins.
Tetuan, the Yagath of the Romans, situate at the opening of the Straits
of Gibraltar, four or five miles from the sea, upon the declivity of a
hill and within two small ranges of mountains, is a fine, large, rich
and mercantile city of the province of Hasbat. It has a resident
governor of considerable power and consequence, the name of the present
functionary being Hash-Hash, who has long held the appointment, and
enjoys great influence near the Sultan. Half a mile east of the city
passes from the south Wad Marteen, (the Cus of Marmol) which disembogues
into the sea; on its banks is the little port of Marteen or Marteel, not
quite two miles distant from the coast, and about three from the city,
where a good deal of commerce is carried on, small vessels, laden with
the produce of Barbary, sailing thence to Spain, Gibraltar, and even
France and Italy. The population of Tetouan is from nine to twelve
thousand souls, including, besides Moors and Arabs, four thousand Jews,
two thousand Negroes, and eight thousand Berbers. The streets are
generally formed into arcades, or covered bazaars.
The Jews have a separate quarter; their women are celebrated for their
beauty. The suburbs are adorned with fine gardens, and olive and vine
plantations. Orange groves, or rather orange forests, extend for miles
around, yielding their golden treasures. A great export of oranges could
be established here, which might be conveyed overland to India.
Altogether, Tetuan is one of the most respectable coast-cities of
Morocco, though it has no port immediately adjoining it. Its
fortifications are only strong enough to resist the attack of hostile
Berbers. The town is about two-thirds of a day's journey from Tangier,
south-east. A fair day's journey would be, in Morocco, upwards of thirty
English miles, but a good deal depends upon the season of the year when
you travel.
Ceuta is considered to be Esilissa of Ptolemy, and was once the capital
of Mauritania Tingitana. The Arabs call it Sebat and Sebta, _i.e._,
"seven," after the Romans, who called it _Septem fratres_, and the
Greeks the same, apparently on account of the seven mountains, which are
in the neighbourhood. Ceuta, or Sebta, is evidently the modern form of
this classic name. It is a very ancient city and celebrated fortress,
situate fourteen miles south of Gibraltar, nearly opposite to it, as a
species of rival stronghold, and placed upon a peninsula, which detaches
itself from the continent on the east, and turns then to the north. The
city extends over the tongue of land nearest the continent; the citadel
occupies Monte-del-Acho, called formerly Jibel-el-Mina, a name still
preserved in Almina, a suburb to the south-east.
In the beginning of the eighth century, Ceuta, which was inhabited by
the Goths, passed into the hands of the Arabs, who made it a point of
departure for the expeditions into Spain. It was conquered by the
powerful Arab family of the Ben-Hamed, one of whom, called Mohammed
Edris, invaded Spain, and, after several conquests, was proclaimed King
of Cordova, in A.D. 1,000,
On 21st of August, 1415, the Portuguese conquered it, and it was the
first place which they occupied in Africa. In 1578, at the death of Don
Sebastian, Ceuta passed with Portugal and the rest of the colonies into
the power of Spain; and when, in 1640, the Portuguese recovered their
independence, the Spaniards were left masters of Ceuta, which continues
still in their hands, but is of no utility to them except as a
_praesidio_, which makes the fourth penal settlement possessed by them
on this coast.
Ceuta contains a garrison of two or three thousand men. The free
population amounts to some five or six thousand. It has a small and
insecure port. Here is the famed Gibel Zaterit, "Monkey's promontory,"
or "Ape's Hill," which has occasioned the ingenious fable, that,
inasmuch as there are no monkeys in any part of Europe except Gibraltar,
directly opposite to this rock, where also monkeys are found, there must
necessarily be a subterranean passage beneath the sea, by which they
pass and re-pass to opposite sides of the Straits, and maintain a
friendly and uninterrupted intercourse between the brethren of Africa
and Europe.
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