The Deren [17]
Of The Natives, From The Frontiers Of Algeria East To Cape Gheer, On The
South-West.
This includes the various districts of the Gharb, Temsna,
Beni Hasan, Shawia, Fez, Todla, Dukala, Shragno, Abda, Haha, Shedma,
Khamna, Morocco, &c.
III. South of the Atlas: or quasi-Saharan region, comprising the various
provinces and districts of Sous, Sidi Hisham, Wadnoun, Guezoula, Draha
(Draa), Tafilett, and a large portion of the Sahara, south-east of the
Atlas.
As to statistics of population I am inclined fully to admit the
statement of Signor Balbi that, the term of African statistics ought to
be rejected as absurd. Count Hemo de Graeberg, who was a long time Consul
at Tangier, and wrote a statistical and geographical account of the
empire of Morocco, states the number of the inhabitants of the town of
Mazagran to be two thousand. Mr. Elton who resided there several months,
assured me it does not contain more than one hundred. Another gentleman
who dwelt there says, three hundred. This case is a fair sample of the
style in which the statistics of population in Morocco are and have been
calculated.
Before the occupation of Algeria by the French, all the cities were
vulgarly calculated at double, or treble their amount of population.
This has also been the case even in India, where we could obtain, with
care, tolerably correct statistics. The prejudices of oriental and
Africo-eastern people are wholly set against statistics, or numbering
the population. No mother knows the age of her own child. It is
ill-omened, if not an affront, to ask a man how many children he has;
and to demand the amount of the population of a city, is either
constructed as an infringement upon the prerogative of the omnipotent
Creator, who knows how many people he creates, and how to take care of
them, or it is the question of a spy, who is seeking to ascertain the
strength or weakness of the country. Europeans can, therefore, rarely
obtain any correct statistical information in Morocco: all is proximate
and conjectural. [18] I am anxious, nevertheless, to give some
particulars respecting the population, in order that we may really have
a proximate idea of the strength and resources of this important
country. In describing the towns and cities of the various provinces, I
shall divide them into,
1. Towns and cities of the coast.
2. Capital or royal cities.
3. Other towns and remarkable places in the interior [19].
The towns and ports, on the Mediterranean, are of considerable interest,
but our information is very scanty, except as far as relates to the
_praesidios_ of Spain, or the well-known and much frequented towns of
Tetuan and Tangier.
Near the mouth of the Malwia (or fifteen miles distant), is the little
town of Kalat-el-wad, with a castle in which the Governor resides.
Whether the river is navigable up to this place, I have not been able to
discover. The water-communication of the interior of North Africa is not
worth the name. Zaffarinds or Jafarines, are three isles lying off the
west of the river Mulweeah, at a short distance, or near its mouth.
These belong to Spain, and have recently been additionally fortified,
but why, or for what reason, is not so obvious. Opposite to them, there
is said to be a small town, situate on the mainland. The Spaniards, in
the utter feebleness and decadence of their power, have lately dubbed
some one or other "Captain-general of the Spanish possessions, &c. in
North Africa."
Melilla or Melilah is a very ancient city, founded by the Carthaginians,
built near a cape called by the Romans, _Rusadir_ (now Tres-Forcas) the
name afterwards given to the city, and which it still retains in the
form of Ras-ed-Dir, (Head of the mountain). This town is the capital of
the province of Garet, and is said to contain 3,000 souls. It is situate
amidst a vast tract of fine country, abounding in minerals, and most
delicious honey, from which it is pretended the place receives its name.
On an isle near, and joined to the mainland by a draw-bridge, is the
Spanish _praesidio_, or convict-settlement called also Melilla,
containing a population of 2,244 according to the Spanish, but Rabbi and
Graeberg do not give it more than a thousand. At a short distance,
towards the east, is an exceedingly spacious bay, of twenty-two miles in
circumference, where, they say, a thousand ships of war could be
anchored in perfect safety, and where the ancient galleys of Venice
carried on a lucrative trade with Fez. Within the bay, three miles
inland, are the ruins of the ancient city of Eazaza, once a celebrated
place.
Alhucemos, is another small island and _praesidio_ of the Spaniards,
containing five or six hundred inhabitants; it commands the bay of the
same name, and is situate at the mouth of the river Wad Nechor, where
there is also the Islet of Ed-Housh. Near the bay, is the ancient
capital, Mezemma, now in ruins; it had, however, some commercial
importance in the times of Louis XIV., and carried on trade with France.
Penon de Velez is the third _praesidio_-island, a convict settlement of
the Spaniards on this coast, and a very strong position, situate
opposite the mouths of the river Gomera, which disembogues in the
Mediterranean. The garrison contains some nine hundred inhabitants. So
far as natural resources are concerned, Penon de Velez is a mere rock,
and a part of the year is obliged to be supplied with fresh water from
the mainland. Immediately opposite to the continent is the city of
Gomera (or Badis), the ancient Parientina, or perhaps the Acra of
Ptolemy, afterwards called Belis, and by the Spaniards, Velez de la
Gomera. The name Gomera, according to J.A. Conde, is derived from the
celebrated Arab tribe of the Gomeres, who flourished in Africa and Spain
until the last Moorish kings of Granada.
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