Saw Several Birds Called Kader, About The
Size Of A Partridge, But We Shot None.
A good many hares and partridges
either crossed our path or whirred over our heads.
Passed over a running
stream called Zebharah, where we saw the remains of an ancient bridge,
but in the place where the baggage went over there was a fine one in
good repair. Here was a small dome-topped chapel, called Sidi Farhat, in
which are laid the ashes of a saint. We had seen many such in the hills;
indeed these gubbah abound all over Barbary, and are placed more
frequently on elevations. We noticed particularly the 300 Turkish
infantry; they were irregulars with a vengeance, though regulars
compared to the Arabs. On overtaking them, they drew up on each side,
and some dozen of them kept up a running sham fight with their swords
and small wooden and metal shields before the Bey. The officers kissed
the hand of the Bey, and his treasurer tipped their band, for so we must
call their tumtums and squeaking-pipes. This ceremony took place every
morning, and they were received in the camp with all the honours. They
kept guard during the night, and did all they could to keep us awake by
their eternal cry of "Alleya," which means, "Be off," or "Keep your
distance!" These troops had not been recruited for eight years, and will
soon die off; and yet we see that the Bey treats these remnants of the
once formidable Turkish Tunisian Janissaries with great respect; of
course, in an affair with the Arabs, their fidelity to the Bey would be
most unshaken.
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