The iron hand of despotic government presses heavily upon all
industry. If we add to this defective state of culture, the miserably
moral condition of the people, we have the unpleasant picture of an
inferiority civilized race of mankind scattered over a badly cultivated
region. Not all the magnificence of the glorious Atlas can reconcile
such a prospect to the imagination. But, unhappily, Morocco does not
constitute a very striking exception to the progress of civilization
along the shores and in the isles of the Mediterranean. Many countries
in Southern Europe are in a state little superior, and the Moorish
civilization is almost on a par with that of the Grecian, Sicilian, or
Maltese, and quite equal to Turkish advancement in the arts and sciences
of the nineteenth century. The only real advantage of the Turks over the
Moors consists in the improvements the former have made in the
organization of the army. Whoever travels through Morocco, and will but
open his eyes to survey its rich valleys and fertile plains, will be
impressed with the conviction that this country, cultivated by an
industrious population, and fostered by a paternal government, is
capable of producing all the agricultural wealth of the north and the
south of Europe, as well as the Tropics, and of maintaining its
inhabitants in happiness and plenty.
CHAPTER VI.
Influence of French Consuls. - Arrival of the Governor of Mogador from
the Capital; he brings an order to imprison the late Governor; his
character, and mode of administering affairs. - Statue of a Negress at
the bottom of a well. - Spanish Renegades. - Various Wedding Festivals of
Jews. - Frequent Fetes and Feastings amongst the Jewish population of
Morocco. - Scripture Illustration, "Behold the Bridegroom
cometh!" - Jewish Renegades. - How far women have souls. - Infrequency of
Suicides.
Notwithstanding the sarcasm of a French journalist that the French and
other Europeans consuls are "consuls des jusifs, et pour la protection
des jusifs," the French consuls both here and at Tangier, have real
power and influence with the Government.
The Governor of Mogador, Sidi Haj El-Arby, arrived from Morocco. His
Excellency feared an attack from the Shedma and the Hhaha people, and
was obliged to have a strong escort. Not long ago, the Sultan himself
had a narrow escape from falling into the hands of a band of insurgents;
their object was to make their lord-paramount a prisoner, and extort
concessions as the price of his liberty. This will help us to form an
opinion of the want of sympathy between potentate and subjects in
Morocco.
His Excellency brought an order from the Imperial despot to imprison the
late governor, if the balance of 6,000 dollars was not instantly
forthcoming, he having only paid nine out of the 15,000 demanded. The
late governor was confined in his house, instead of in the common
prison. It was said he was worth 30,000 dollars, but that he was afraid
to make too prompt a payment of the demand of the Emperor, lest he
should be called upon for more. However, his furniture, horses, and
mules were sold in the public streets; a melancholy spectacle was the
degradation of a former governor of this city. [23]
The Moors look upon these things as matters of course, or with
indifference, quietly ejaculating, "It is destiny! who can resist?" but
the Moor, nevertheless, can clearly discern that wealth is a crime in
the eyes of their sovereign. I am not surprised at the present governor
absolutely rejecting all presents, and making the people call him by the
_soubriquet_ of "the Governor of _no_ presents,"
A short time after his appointment, a merchant having left his
Excellency a present during his absence from home, was immediately
summoned before him, when the following dialogue ensued: -
_His Excellency._ - "Sir, how dare you leave a present at my house?"
_The Merchant._ - "Other governors before your Excellency have received
presents."
_His Excellency._ - "I am a governor of no presents! How much do you owe
the Sultan, my master?"
_The Merchant._ - "I - I - I - don't know," (hesitating and trembling)
_His Excellency._ - "Very well, when you owe the Sultan nothing, bring me
a present, and take this away, and make known to everybody, that Haj
El-Arby receives _no_ presents."
The fact is, the Governor knows what he is about. Were his Excellency to
receive 16,000 dollars per annum as presents from the merchants of
Mogador, the Sultan would demand of him 15,999; besides, there is not a
merchant who makes a present that does not demand its value, a _quid pro
quo_ in the remission of custom-duties. Sidi-El-Arby is also a thorough
diplomatist, so far as report goes; he promises anybody anything; he
keeps all on the tiptoe of most blessed expectation, and so makes
friends of everybody. "To his friend, Cohen," he says, "I'll take you
back to my country with me, and make you rich; we are of the same
country." To Phillips, "You shall have a ship of your own soon." To the
merchants, "The Sultan shall lend you money whenever you want it." To
the Moors in general, "You shall have your taxes reduced." In this way,
his Excellency promises and flatters all, but takes very good care to
compromise himself with none.
The frequented as well as the unfrequented spots are centres of
superstition. In the Sahara, by a lonely well, in the midst of boundless
sterility, where the curse on earth seems to have burnt blackest, a
camel passes every night groaning piteously, and wandering about in
search of its murdered master, so the tale was told me. Now, about two
day's journey from Mogador, there is also a well, containing within its
dank and dark hollow a perpetual apparition. At its bottom is seen the
motionless statue of a negress, with a variety of wearing materials
placed beside her, all made of fine burnished gold, and so bright, that
the dreary cavern of the deep well is illuminated.
