I Inquired In Mandingo What He Meant; _Wara Billi Billi_,
A Very Large Lion, Said He; And Made Signs For Me To Ride Away.
But my
horse was too much fatigued; so we rode slowly past the bush, from which
the animal had given us the alarm.
Not seeing any thing myself, however,
I thought my guide had been mistaken, when the Foulah suddenly put his
hand to his mouth, exclaiming _Soubah an alluhi_ (God preserve us!), and
to my great surprise I then perceived a large red lion, at a short
distance from the bush, with his head couched between his fore paws. I
expected he would instantly spring upon me, and instinctively pulled my
feet from my stirrups to throw myself on the ground, that my horse might
become the victim, rather than myself. But it is probable the lion was
not hungry; for he quietly suffered us to pass, though we were fairly
within his reach. My eyes were so rivetted upon this sovereign of the
beasts, that I found it impossible to remove them, until we were at a
considerable distance. We now took a circuitous route, through some
swampy ground, to avoid any more of these disagreeable rencounters. At
sunset we arrived at Modiboo, a delightful village on the banks of the
Niger, commanding a view of the river for many miles, both to the east
and west. The small green islands, (the peaceful retreat of some
industrious Foulahs, whose cattle are here secure from the depredations
of wild beasts,) and the majestic breadth of the river, which is here
much larger than at Sego, render the situation one of the most enchanting
in the world. Here are caught great plenty of fish, by means of long
cotton nets, which the natives make themselves, and use nearly in the
same manner as nets are used in Europe. I observed the head of a
crocodile lying upon one of the houses, which they told me had been
killed by the shepherds in a swamp near the town. These animals are not
uncommon in the Niger; but I believe they are not oftentimes found
dangerous. They are of little account to the traveller, when compared
with the amazing swarms of musquetoes, which rise from the swamps and
creeks, in such numbers as to harass even the most torpid of the natives;
and as my clothes were now almost worn to rags, I was but ill prepared to
resist their attacks. I usually passed the night without shutting my
eyes, walking backwards and forwards, fanning myself with my hat; their
stings raised numerous blisters on my legs and arms; which, together with
the want of rest, made me very feverish and uneasy.
July 29th. Early in the morning, my landlord observing that I was sickly,
hurried me away; sending a servant with me as a guide to Kea. But though
I was little able to walk, my horse was still less able to carry me; and
about six miles to the east of Modiboo, in crossing some rough clayey
ground, he fell; and the united strength of the guide and myself could
not place him again upon his legs. I sat down for some time, beside this
worn-out associate of my adventures; but finding him still unable to
rise, I took off the saddle and bridle, and placed a quantity of grass
before him. I surveyed the poor animal, as he lay panting on the ground,
with sympathetic emotion; for I could not suppress the sad apprehension,
that I should myself, in a short time, lie down and perish in the same
manner, of fatigue and hunger. With this foreboding, I left my poor
horse, and with great reluctance followed my guide on foot, along the
bank of the river, until about noon; when we reached Kea, which I found
to be nothing more than a small fishing village. The Dooty, a surly old
man, who was sitting by the gate, received me very coolly; and when I
informed him of my situation, and begged his protection, told me, with
great indifference, that he paid very little attention to fine speeches,
and that I should not enter his house. My guide remonstrated in my
favour, but to no purpose; for the Dooty remained inflexible in his
determination, I knew not where to rest my wearied limbs, but was happily
relieved by a fishing canoe, belonging to Silla, which was at that moment
coming down the river. The Dooty waved to the fisherman to come near, and
desired him to take, charge of me as far as Moorzan. The fisherman, after
some hesitation, consented to carry me; and I embarked in the canoe, in
company with the fisherman, his wife, and a boy. The Negro who had
conducted me from Modiboo now left me; I requested him to look to my
horse on his return, and take care of him if he was still alive, which he
promised to do.
Departing from Kea, we proceeded about a mile down the river, when the
fisherman paddled the canoe to the bank, and desired me to jump out.
Having tied the canoe to a stake, he stripped off his clothes, and dived
for such a length of time, that I thought he had actually drowned
himself, and was surprised to see his wife behave with so much
indifference upon the occasion; but my fears were over when he raised up
his head astern of the canoe, and called for a rope. With this rope he
dived a second time, and then got into the canoe, and ordered the boy to
assist him in pulling. At length they brought up a large basket, about
ten feet in diameter, containing two fine fish, which the fisherman
(after returning the basket into the water) immediately carried ashore,
and hid in the grass. We then went a little further down, and took up
another basket, in which was one fish. The fisherman now left us, to
carry his prizes to some neighbouring market; and the woman and boy
proceeded with me in the canoe down the river.
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