The Sun Was Almost Set Before
We Reached Datliboo.
In the evening we had a most tremendous tornado.
The
house in which we lodged, being flat-roofed, admitted the rain in
streams; the floor was soon ankle deep, the fire extinguished, and we
were left to pass the night upon some bundles of fire wood, that happened
to lie in a corner.
July 17th. We departed from Datliboo; and about ten o'clock passed a
large coffle returning from Sego, with corn hoes, mats, and other
household utensils. At five o'clock we came to a large village, where we
intended to pass the night, but the Dooty would not receive us. When we
departed from this place, my horse was so much fatigued that I was under
the necessity of driving him, and it was dark before we reached Fanimboo,
a small village; the Dooty of which no sooner heard that I was a white
man, than he brought out three old muskets, and was much disappointed,
when he was told that I could not repair them.
July 18th. We continued our journey, but, owing to a light supper the
preceding night, we felt ourselves rather hungry this morning, and
endeavoured to procure some corn at a village; but without success. The
towns were now more numerous, and the land that is not employed in
cultivation affords excellent pasturage for large herds of cattle; but
owing to the great concourse of people daily going to and returning from
Sego, the inhabitants are less hospitable to strangers.
My horse becoming weaker and weaker every day, was now of very little
service to me. I was obliged to drive him before me for the greater part
of the day; and did not reach Geosorro until eight o'clock in the
evening. I found my companions wrangling with the Dooty, who had
absolutely refused to give or sell them any provisions; and as none of us
had tasted victuals for the last twenty-four hours, we were by no means
disposed to fast another day if we could help it. But finding our
entreaties without effect, and being very much fatigued, I fell asleep,
from which I was awakened about midnight, with the joyful information
"_kinnenata_" (the victuals are come.) This made the remainder of the
night pass away pleasantly; and at daybreak, July 19th, we resumed our
journey, proposing to stop at a village called Doolinkeaboo, for the
night following. My fellow-travellers having better horses than myself,
soon left me, and I was walking barefoot, driving my horse, when I was
met by a coffle of slaves, about seventy in number, coming from Sego.
They were tied together by their necks with thongs of a bullock's hide
twisted like a rope; seven slaves upon a thong, and a man with a musket
between every seven. Many of the slaves were ill-conditioned, and a great
number of them women. In the rear came Sidi, Mahomed's servant, whom I
remembered to have seen at the camp of Benowm: he presently knew me, and
told me that these slaves were going to Morocco, by the way of Ludamar,
and the Great Desert.
In the afternoon, as I approached Doolinkeaboo, I met about twenty Moors
on horseback, the owners of the slaves I had seen in the morning; they
were well armed with muskets, and were very inquisitive concerning me,
but not so rude as their countrymen generally are. From them I learned
that Sidi Mahomed was not at Sego, but had gone to Kancaba for gold-dust.
When I arrived at Doolinkeaboo, I was informed that my fellow-travellers
had gone on; but my horse was so much fatigued that I could not possibly
proceed after them. The Dooty of the town, at my request, gave me a
draught of water, which is generally looked upon as an earnest of greater
hospitality, and I had no doubt of making up for the toils of the day by
a good supper and a sound sleep. Unfortunately, I had neither one nor the
other. The night was rainy and tempestuous, and the Dooty limited his
hospitality to the draught of water.
July 20th. In the morning I endeavoured, both by entreaties and threats,
to procure some victuals from the Dooty, but in vain. I even begged some
corn from one of his female slaves, as she was washing it at the well,
and had the mortification to be refused. However, when the Dooty was gone
to the fields, his wife sent me a handful of meal, which I mixed with
water and drank for breakfast. About eight o'clock I departed from
Doolinkeaboo, and at noon stopped a few minutes at a large Korree, where
I had some milk given me by the Foulahs. And hearing that two Negroes
were going from thence to Sego, I was happy to have their company, and we
set out immediately. About four o'clock we stopped at a small village,
where one of the Negroes met with an acquaintance who invited us to a
sort of public entertainment, which was conducted with more than common
propriety. A dish made of sour milk and meal, called _Sinkatoo_, and beer
made from their corn, was distributed with great liberality; and the
women were admitted into the society, a circumstance I had never before
observed in Africa. There was no compulsion, every one was at liberty to
drink as he pleased; they nodded to each other when about to drink, and
on setting down the calabash, commonly said _berka_, (thank you). Both
men and women appeared to be somewhat intoxicated, but they were far from
being quarrelsome.
Departing from thence, we passed several large villages, where I was
constantly taken for a Moor, and became the subject of much merriment to
the Bambarrans; who, seeing me drive my horse before me, laughed heartily
at my appearance. He has been at Mecca, says one, you may see that by his
clothes; another asked me if my horse was sick; a third wished to
purchase it, &c., so that I believe the very slaves were ashamed to be
seen in my company.
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