About ten o'clock I passed a considerable town, with a mosque,
called Jabbe.
Here the country begins to rise into hills, and I could see
the summits of high mountains to the westward. I had very disagreeable
travelling all this day, on account of the swampiness of the roads; for
the river was now risen to such a height, as to overflow great part of
the flat land on both sides; and, from the muddiness of the water, it was
difficult to discern its depth. In crossing one of these swamps, a little
to the westward of a town called Gangu, my horse, being up to the belly
in water, slipt suddenly into a deep pit, and was almost drowned before
he could disengage his feet from the stiff clay at the bottom. Indeed,
both the horse and its rider were so completely covered with mud, that,
in passing the village of Callimana, the people compared us to two dirty
elephants. About noon I stopped at a small village near Yamina, where I
purchased some corn, and dried my papers and clothes.
The town of Yamina, at a distance, has a very fine appearance. It covers
nearly the same extent of ground as Sansanding; but having been plundered
by Daisy, King of Kaarta, about four years ago, it has not yet resumed
its former prosperity; nearly one half of the town being nothing but a
heap of ruins. However, it is still a considerable place, and is so much
frequented by the Moors, that I did not think it safe to lodge in it. But
in order to satisfy myself respecting its population and extent, I
resolved to ride through it; in doing which, I observed a great many
Moors sitting upon the Bentangs, and other places of public resort. Every
body looked at me with astonishment; but, as I rode briskly along, they
had no time to ask questions.
I arrived in the evening at Farra, a walled village; where, without much
difficulty, I procured a lodging for the night.
Aug. 17th. Early in the morning I pursued my journey, and at eight
o'clock passed a considerable, town called Balaba; after which the road
quits the plain, and stretches along the side of the hill. I passed in
the course of this day the ruins of three towns, the inhabitants of which
were all carried away by Daisy, King of Kaarta, on the same day that he
took and plundered Yamina. Near one of these ruins I climbed a tamarind
tree, but found the fruit quite green and sour; and the prospect of the
country was by no means inviting; for the high grass and bushes seemed
completely to obstruct the road, and the low lands were all so flooded by
the river, that the Niger had the appearance of an extensive lake. In the
evening I arrived at Kanika, where the Dooty, who was sitting upon an
elephant's hide at the gate, received me kindly; and gave me for supper
some milk and meal; which I considered (as to a person in my situation it
really was) a very great luxury.
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