Here
And There, Indeed, May Be Seen A Small Fertile Spot, Covered With
Cattle, Sheep, And Goats, And Occasionally A Well, Encompassed By A
Wall Of Broad Flat Stones, Capable Of Affording A Seat To A Dozen
People.
On approaching the city, however, the country appears more
cultivated, luxuriant, and rich.
The figures of some common women, apparently employed in agricultural
occupations, struck me with surprise, as their dress was quite
different from any I had seen when in this country before. On their
head they wore a straw hat, of an enormous circumference; under this
was a piece of white cloth extending over the forehead to the eyes;
and immediately below this another, which reached as far down as the
chin; their eyes peeping through the intermediate space. Their bodies
were enveloped in a coarse haik, a species of serge of their own
manufacture.
Upon entering the city gate, one of my guards took hold of my bridle,
and conducted me over innumerable rocks, to the Jewish town. The
surface of the ground being an uneven rock, which every where remains
unlevelled, the streets consist of abrupt ascents and descents, even
worse than those of Larache; they are also extremely narrow and dirty;
and as the houses have no windows towards the streets, you in fact
pass along between two dead walls, almost suffocated by a hot and
fetid atmosphere.
When we reached the house of the Vice-consul, I was presented with a
glass of _aguardiente_, for refreshment.
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