We Entered This Public
Building By An Arched Gateway, And Proceeded Through A Winding Passage
Into A Quadrangle, In The Centre Of Which Is A Well Of Excellent
Water.
Near the well was an arcade, shaded by a grape-vine, to which I
was conducted, and there placed in an old arm-chair.
The Vice-consul
and the Moorish commandant seated themselves cross-legged, upon mats
spread upon the floor, and dinner, consisting of roasted fowls and
fried sardinias, was immediately served.
After dinner my baggage was put upon mules, and a saddle-horse was
brought for me. This animal was perfectly white, and loaded with an
enormous saddle, which had a large peak before and behind, covered
with a scarlet cloth, and furnished with a pair of stirrups of a
curious form, much resembling a coal-scuttle; but, _outre_ as
this appeared, I assure you, I found myself very comfortably seated,
and perfectly secure from falling. Thus equipped, we set forward for
Tetuan, accompanied by a Moorish officer and twelve horsemen.
Whips are not in fashion in this country, and their place is supplied
by two long ends of the bridle, cut to a point; but the horses, though
very spirited, are perfectly under command, and need neither whip nor
spur.
The town of Tetuan is seen at a great distance, from being built, like
Tangiers, on the declivity of a high hill, and the houses being
whitewashed. The road from the Custom-house is abominably bad; it lies
across a wearisome, barren plain, surrounded by craggy mountains.
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