This Condescension Was
Esteemed As An Excellent Omen.
At the conclusion of the appointed
time, we set off for this our ultimate destination.
The road from
Mequinez to Fez is excellent, extending along a pleasant and spacious
plain, encompassed by high mountains, and intersected by small rivers,
over which are stone bridges. These rivers are divided into several
branches, which are again subdivided by the inhabitants, and carried
in canals to water their lands. The prospect of the country is every
where luxuriant in the extreme, and continually presents the most
interesting objects. A scattered ruin, a large village, a meandering
river, or a fine natural cascade, vineyards, woods, corn-fields,
meadows, and saints' houses, surrounded by beautiful gardens and
shrubberies, all lying in endless variety, formed the most picturesque
landscapes.
As we left our quarters at Mequinez rather late, we encamped at eight
o'clock in the evening at the opening of the plain I have just
described. The next morning we set off much earlier than usual, but
had not proceeded far when our progress was interrupted by a
prodigious multitude of people, who pressed forward with such
eagerness, that we were obliged to stand aside, and allow them to
pass. Men, on horseback and on foot, women, and children, formed a
procession which extended as far as the eye could reach. They were
advancing in several divisions, each division preceded by a man
bearing a standard, and by a band of music (if the horrible discord
produced by their instruments could be dignified with the name of
music), the people accompanying the band with their voices, shouting,
bawling, and bellowing their national songs with the greatest
vehemence.
These people were on their way to visit the sanctuary of _Sidy Edris_,
the founder of Mahometanism in this country: it stands on the mountain
_Zaaron_, at the western side of the plain of Fez, and near the city
of Mequinez. Close to the sanctuary is a village, the inhabitants of
which are held in the highest veneration, their huts and tents being
consecrated to the Mahometan devotion, and, as well as the sanctuary,
forming asylums for malefactors, which are never violated even by the
Emperor. After this visit to the sanctuary, they attend an annual
meeting, where they feast for three days, amusing themselves with
dancing, fighting with wild beasts, and committing all kinds of excess
in the ancient Bacchanalian style.
Formerly saints sprang up in Barbary like mushrooms. A Moor, seized in
the night with a slight fit of insanity, was considered in the morning
as a new saint, and as such he was revered, and his name added to
their list of saints. In consequence of this, he was permitted to do
whatever his fancy directed, without suffering the smallest
molestation. Hence many worthless wretches feigned madness, in order
that they might, with impunity, gratify their avaricious and
revengeful passions, or their violent and ungovernable lust. The
number of these impostors a few years back was incredible, and they
literally held sovereign rule, from their numbers and great influence
over this superstitious and fanatic people; but since the accession of
Muley Solyman to the throne of Morocco, their influence and their
numbers have considerably decreased.
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