Escorted As Before, I Directed My Way Towards
Mamora, A Fortress About Sixty Miles Off.
I halted frequently to observe the face of, the country, and could not
forbear lamenting the little knowledge I
Possess in the art of
drawing; indeed, I never had more reason to regret having neglected it
than now, as it would have enabled me to present you with some very
interesting views, to which my pen cannot do justice.
The beautiful intermixture of lakes, forests, and green vallies,
forming most delightful landscapes, brought to my recollection those
scenes I have so often contemplated, in my youthful days, on the
borders of Switzerland. The lakes abound with all kinds of
water-fowls, and fine eels; and are surrounded by villages,
sanctuaries, and holy houses; the latter occupied by the descendants
of the ancient _Maraboots_, who are held in the highest veneration by
the Moors, and whose habitations are considered as sacred asylums,
which are never violated, either by the civil or military power.
We ascended an eminence, upon which stands one of their most
celebrated sanctuaries, built in the form of a pavilion, with four
arched folding-doors, in the Gothic style, covered with varnished
tiles of various colours, and embellished with curious Arabic
characters. I was eagerly approaching, at the head of my little party,
to gratify my curiosity, when a shower of stones, from the holy
inhabitants of the neighbouring huts and tents, compelled me to
desist; and after a retreat of one hundred yards, I sat down to
refresh myself undisturbed.
From this hill, however, I had a better opportunity of surveying the
beauties of the adjacent lands, which are very productive; and also to
observe the windings of the river _Seboo_, which, taking its source in
the neighbourhood of Fez, forms a junction with the river _Beth_, and
falls into the Atlantic Ocean.
After journeying about a league, we crossed this river in a
ferry-boat, and in a short time reached the fort of _Mamora_, which
lies about two miles to the south of the river. This fort, after
having been demolished by the Moors, was rebuilt by the Spaniards in
1604, and taken by Muley Ishmael in 1681. It is commanded by an
Alcaid, and inhabited by about forty or fifty families, who gain a
livelihood by fishing for shads and eels; with which they supply the
adjoining country during the winter season.
We rested at this place, and feasted upon fried eels, which I found
equal to those caught in the Thames. From _Mamora_ we proceeded to
_Salee_ another maritime town, situated in the province of
_Ben-hassen_, and at the mouth of the river _Salee_, which is formed
by the junction of two small rivers. The Governor of that place being
an intimate friend of my patient, I was most kindly and hospitably
received by him; and elegantly entertained in one of his gardens,
which are well laid out, and ornamented with several fountains playing
into marble basins, as well as by several delightful streams of water.
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