It is
encompassed by deep trenches, with sluices to fill them with water
from the river, The streets of this town are narrow and dirty, paved
with large irregular stones, and consisting of abrupt ascents and
descents, which render them unsafe to pass through on horseback.
Near the castle, at the extremity of the cape, facing the Atlantic, is
an oblong square, surrounded by a piazza, supported by colonnades,
where the shops of the merchants are situated, and where the market
also is held. The cattle-market is kept in an extensive plain, to
which you pass through a crooked way, out of the western
gate. Thursday is the market-day.
Fresh water is extremely scarce, and the inhabitants are sometimes
greatly distressed for want of it. Larache is a seat of government,
and contains a spacious inland harbour; but the entrance is dangerous
from the badness of its bar, which might, however, be removed with
little trouble and expense, so as to render the harbour very
commodious for shipping,
The harbour contains a portion of the Emperor's maritime force, which
consists of four frigates, a brig, and a sloop of war, in very
tolerable condition. This little fleet is commanded by an admiral, and
sails every year in the month of May; when it cruizes about during the
summer, picking up a few straggling vessels, and returns here to
winter; in which time the sailors are twice a week exercised at the
great guns. This town is now entirely occupied by soldiers and
sailors, and their respective families. It did contain about two
thousand Jews, whose business it was to purchase hides, wool, and wax,
for several commercial houses established at Tetuan; but these poor
people were obliged to leave this garrison, and take refuge in the
neighbouring mountains, from a sudden and irrevocable decree of the
Emperor, on account of their having sold some _aguardiente_ to the
sailors, which occasioned a great fight, that was attended with the
loss of three Moors.
I have just received intelligence of the death of Mr. Matra; I am
extremely sorry for this event, as, in him, we have lost a very
powerful advocate at the court of Morocco: but it is no more than I
expected, from the state in which I left him at Tangiers.
LETTER IV.
Excursion to Mamora, and thence to Salee - Friendly Reception by the
Governor of the latter - Rabat - Tower of Hassen - Shella -
Mansooria - Alcasser - Quiber - Its Socco, or Marketplace.
Larache, 1805.
To escape from the importunities of those poor creatures who continued
to pester me for medicines with which I could not supply them, I
availed myself of the convalescent state of the Governor, and obtained
his permission to make a short excursion to the nearest seaport towns
on the western coast.
