They Flocked Out As I Passed,
To Gratify Their Curiosity In Seeing A _Massarane_ (For So They
Denominate A Christian).
Yet, notwithstanding their antipathy to all
Christians, I was received with the greatest hospitality by these
followers of Mahomet.
They seemed to vie with each other in presenting
the bowl of butter-milk, which they consider as a great delicacy, and.
indeed, an offering of peace.
In the centre of a plain, about eight hours journey from Tangiers, we
halted, and refreshed ourselves. After allowing my serjeant and guard
to perform their ablutions, and say their prayers, we proceeded on our
journey, and arrived, very late in the evening, at a village on the
banks of a large river, which, from its situation, I imagine to be the
_Zelis_, or _Zelia_, of the ancients, and which, by its annual
inundation, fertilizes and enriches the country to such a degree,
that, with very little labour, it produces abundant crops of all kinds
of grain, particularly of wheat and barley.
A number of rivulets have their source in those mountains, which,
joining others in their course, at length form pretty considerable
rivers; and these, meeting with obstacles from the projecting rocks
over which they pass, produce most beautiful natural cascades, which,
precipitating themselves into the plains, preserve so great a moisture
in the soil, that it is covered with a continual verdure.
There are no public inns for the accommodation of travellers on the
road; but the Emperor has caused stone buildings to be erected, at
certain distances, as substitutes. These buildings are not so good as
many of the stables in England; they resemble the sheds, made, by
farmers, to-give shelter to their cattle in tempestuous weather: yet,
miserable as they were, I was glad to accept the offer of a night's
lodging in one of them, not having provided myself with a tent.
The Cadi of the village conducted us to this delectable abode, which
we found already occupied by six Moorish wanderers, who, in the
Emperor's name, were ordered to turn out, and make room for me and my
suite. Supper was brought me by the Cadi; it consisted, of boiled rice
and milk, and some fresh-water fish, tolerably well dressed. When I
had partaken of this homely repast, I prepared myself for rest, of
which I stood in great need from the fatigues of the day; but, alas!
my evil genius had determined otherwise; it seemed as if all the fleas
and bugs in His Imperial Majesty's dominions had been collected, to
prevent my closing my eyes; or it was, possibly, a legacy bequeathed,
me by my predecessors. Be that as it may, I found them such very
troublesome companions, that I preferred the night air to the prospect
of being devoured before morning; I therefore wrapped myself up in a
thick blanket, and slept, unmolested, in the open air, till after
daybreak, when I found myself sufficiently refreshed to pursue my
journey. Crossing the river, we passed through a ruinous walled town,
called _Arzilla_, commanded by an Alcaid, under the Governor of
Larache.
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