- The dooty's brother being going to Modiboo, I embraced the
opportunity of accompanying him thither, there being no beaten
Road.
He promised to carry my saddle, which I had left at Kea, when my
horse fell down in the woods, as I now proposed to present it to the
king of Bambarra.
We departed from Kea at eight o'clock, and about a mile to the
westward observed on the bank of the river a great number of earthen
jars piled up together. They were very neatly formed, but not
glazed, and were evidently of that sort of pottery which is
manufactured at Downie (a town to the west of Timbuctoo), and sold
to great advantage in different parts of Bambarra. As we approached
towards the jars my companion plucked up a large handful of herbage,
and threw it upon them, making signs for me to do the same, which I
did. He then, with great seriousness told me that these jars
belonged to some supernatural power; that they were found in their
present situation about two years ago; and as no person had claimed
them, every traveller as he passed them, from respect to the
invisible proprietor, threw some grass, or the branch of a tree,
upon the heap, to defend the jars from the rain.
Thus conversing, we travelled in the most friendly manner, until
unfortunately we perceived the footsteps of a lion, quite fresh in
the mud, near the river-side. My companion now proceeded with great
circumspection; and at last, coming to some thick underwood, he
insisted that I should walk before him. I endeavoured to excuse
myself, by alleging that I did not know the road; but he obstinately
persisted, and, after a few high words and menacing looks, threw
down the saddle and went away. This very much disconcerted me; but
as I had given up all hopes of obtaining a horse, I could not think
of encumbering myself with the saddle, and, taking off the stirrups
and girths, I threw the saddle into the river. The negro no sooner
saw me throw the saddle into the water than he came running from
among the bushes where he had concealed himself, jumped into the
river, and by help of his spear, brought out the saddle and ran away
with it. I continued my course along the bank; but as the wood was
remarkably thick, and I had reason to believe that a lion was at no
great distance, I became much alarmed, and took a long circuit
through the bushes to avoid him.
About four in the afternoon I reached Modiboo, where I found my
saddle. The guide, who had got there before me, being afraid that I
should inform the king of his conduct, had brought the saddle with
him in a canoe.
While I was conversing with the dooty, and remonstrating against the
guide for having left me in such a situation, I heard a horse neigh
in one of the huts; and the dooty inquired with a smile if I knew
who was speaking to me. He explained himself by telling me that my
horse was still alive, and somewhat recovered from his fatigue; but
he insisted that I should take him along with me, adding that he had
once kept a Moor's horse for four months, and when the horse had
recovered and got into good condition, the Moor returned and claimed
it, and refused to give him any reward for his trouble.
August 1. - I departed from Modiboo, driving my horse before me, and
in the afternoon reached Nyamee; where I remained three days, during
which time it rained without intermission, and with such violence
that no person could venture out of doors.
August 5. - I departed from Nyamee; but the country was so deluged
that I was frequently in danger of losing the road, and had to wade
across the savannas for miles together, knee-deep in water. Even
the corn ground, which is the driest land in the country, was so
completely flooded that my horse twice stuck fast in the mud, and
was not got out without the greatest difficulty.
In the evening of the same day I arrived at Nyara, where I was well
received by the dooty; and as the 6th was rainy I did not depart
until the morning of the 7th; but the water had swelled to such a
height, that in many places the road was scarcely passable, and
though I waded breast-deep across the swamps I could only reach a
small village called Nemaboo, where however, for a hundred kowries,
I procured from some Foulahs plenty of corn for my horse and milk
for myself.
August 8. - The difficulties I had experienced the day before made me
anxious to engage a fellow-traveller, particularly as I was assured
that, in the course of a few days, the country would be so
completely overflowed as to render the road utterly impassable; but
though I offered two hundred kowries for a guide, nobody would
accompany me. However, on the morning following, August 9th, a Moor
and his wife, riding upon two bullocks, and bound for Sego with
salt, passed the village, and agreed to take me along with them; but
I found them of little service, for they were wholly unacquainted
with the road, and being accustomed to a sandy soil, were very bad
travellers. Instead of wading before the bullocks to feel if the
ground was solid, the woman boldly entered the first swamp, riding
upon the top of the load; but when she had proceeded about two
hundred yards the bullock sunk into a hole, and threw both the load
and herself among the reeds. The frightened husband stood for some
time seemingly petrified with horror, and suffered his wife to be
almost drowned before he went to her assistance.
About sunset we reached Sibity, but the dooty received me very
coolly; and when I solicited for a guide to Sansanding he told me
his people were otherwise employed.
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