In Some Parts, Where The
Country Ascends Into Hills, The Air Is At All Times, Comparatively
Cool; Yet None Of The Districts Which I Traversed Could Properly Be
Called Mountainous.
About the middle of June the hot and sultry
atmosphere is agitated by violent gusts of wind (called tornadoes),
accompanied with thunder and rain.
These usher in what is
denominated "the rainy season," which continues until the month of
November. During this time the diurnal rains are very heavy, and
the prevailing winds are from the south-west. The termination of
the rainy season is likewise attended with violent tornadoes, after
which the wind shifts to the north-east, and continues to blow from
that quarter during the rest of the year
When the wind sets in from the north-east it produces a wonderful
change in the face of the country. The grass soon becomes dry and
withered, the rivers subside very rapidly, and many of the trees
shed their leaves. About this period is commonly felt the
harmattan, a dry and parching wind blowing from the north-east, and
accompanied by a thick smoky haze, through which the sun appears of
a dull red colour. This wind in passing over the great desert of
Sahara acquires a very strong attraction for humidity, and parches
up everything exposed to its current. It is, however, reckoned very
salutary, particularly to Europeans, who generally recover their
health during its continuance. I experienced immediate relief from
sickness, both at Dr. Laidley's and at Kamalia, during the
harmattan. Indeed, the air during the rainy season is so loaded
with moisture that clothes, shoes, trunks, and everything that is
not close to the fire becomes damp and mouldy, and the inhabitants
may be said to live in a sort of vapour-bath; but this dry wind
braces up the solids, which were before relaxed, gives a cheerful
flow of spirits, and is even pleasant to respiration. Its ill
effects are, that it produces chaps in the lips, and afflicts many
of the natives with sore eyes.
Whenever the grass is sufficiently dry the negroes set it on fire;
but in Ludamar and other Moorish countries this practice is not
allowed, for it is upon the withered stubble that the Moors feed
their cattle until the return of the rains. The burning the grass
in Manding exhibits a scene of terrific grandeur. In the middle of
the night I could see the plains and mountains, as far as my eye
could reach, variegated with lines of fire, and the light, reflected
on the sky, made the heavens appear in a blaze. In the daytime
pillars of smoke were seen in every direction, while the birds of
prey were observed hovering round the conflagration, and pouncing
down upon the snakes, lizards, and other reptiles which attempted to
escape from the flames. This annual burning is soon followed by a
fresh and sweet verdure, and the country is thereby rendered more
healthful and pleasant.
Of the most remarkable and important of the vegetable productions
mention has already been made; and they are nearly the same in all
the districts through which I passed. It is observable, however,
that although many species of the edible roots which grow in the
West India Islands are found in Africa, yet I never saw, in any part
of my journey, either the sugar-cane, the coffee, or the cocoa-tree,
nor could I learn, on inquiry, that they were known to the natives.
The pine-apple and the thousand other delicious fruits which the
industry of civilised man (improving the bounties of nature) has
brought to so great perfection in the tropical climates of America,
are here equally unknown. I observed, indeed, a few orange and
banana trees near the month of the Gambia, but whether they were
indigenous, or were formerly planted there by some of the white
traders, I could not positively learn. I suspect that they were
originally introduced by the Portuguese.
Concerning property in the soil, it appeared to me that the lands in
native woods were considered as belonging to the king, or (where the
government was not monarchical) to the state. When any individual
of free condition had the means of cultivating more land than he
actually possessed, he applied to the chief man of the district, who
allowed him an extension of territory, on condition of forfeiture if
the lands were not brought into cultivation by a given period. The
condition being fulfilled, the soil became vested in the possessor,
and, for ought that appeared to me, descended his heirs.
The population, however, considering the extent and fertility of the
soil, and the ease with which lands are obtained, is not very great
in the countries which I visited. I found many extensive and
beautiful districts entirely destitute of inhabitants, and, in
general, the borders of the different kingdoms were either very
thinly peopled or entirely deserted. Many places are likewise
unfavourable to population from being unhealthful. The swampy banks
of the Gambia, the Senegal, and other rivers towards the coast, are
of this description. Perhaps it is on this account chiefly that the
interior countries abound more with inhabitants than the maritime
districts; for all the negro nations that fell under my observation,
though divided into a number of petty independent states, subsist
chiefly by the same means, live nearly in the same temperature, and
possess a wonderful similarity of disposition. The Mandingoes, in
particular, are a very gentle race, cheerful in their dispositions,
inquisitive, credulous, simple, and fond of flattery. Perhaps the
most prominent defect in their character was that insurmountable
propensity, which the reader must have observed to prevail in all
classes of them, to steal from me the few effects I was possessed
of. For this part of their conduct no complete justification can be
offered, because theft is a crime in their own estimation; and it
must be observed that they are not habitually and generally guilty
of it towards each other.
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