- We departed from Deena towards Benowm, and about nine
o'clock came to a korree, whence the Moors were preparing
To depart
to the southward, on account of the scarcity of water; here we
filled our soofroo, and continued our journey over a hot sandy
country, covered with small stunted shrubs, until about one o'clock,
when the heat of the sun obliged us to stop. But our water being
expended, we could not prudently remain longer than a few minutes to
collect a little gum, which is an excellent succedaneum for water,
as it keeps the mouth moist, and allays for a time the pain in the
throat.
About five o'clock we came in sight of Benowm, the residence of Ali.
It presented to the eye a great number of dirty-looking tents,
scattered without order over a large space of ground; and among the
tents appeared large herds of camels, cattle, and goats. We reached
the skirts of this camp a little before sunset, and, with much
entreaty, procured a little water. My arrival was no sooner
observed than the people who drew water at the wells threw down
their buckets; those in the tents mounted their horses, and men,
women, and children, came running or galloping towards me. I soon
found myself surrounded by such a crowd that I could scarcely move;
one pulled my clothes, another took off my hat, a third stopped me
to examine my waistcoat-buttons, and a fourth called out, "La illah
el Allah, Mahamet rasowl allahi" - ("There is but one God, and
Mohammed is his Prophet") - and signified, in a threatening manner,
that I must repeat those words.
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