I
Reflected That I Had Parted From The Last European I Might Probably
Behold, And Perhaps Quitted For Ever The Comforts Of Christian
Society.
Thoughts like these would necessarily cast a gloom over my
mind; and I rode musing along for about three
Miles, when I was
awakened from my reverie by a body of people, who came running up,
and stopped the asses, giving me to understand that I must go with
them to Peckaba, to present myself to the king of Walli, or pay
customs to them. I endeavoured to make them comprehend that the
object of my journey not being traffic, I ought not to be subjected
to a tax like the slatees, and other merchants, who travel for gain;
but I reasoned to no purpose. They said it was usual for travellers
of all descriptions to make a present to the king of Walli, and
without doing so I could not be permitted to proceed. As they were
more numerous than my attendants, and withal very noisy, I thought
it prudent to comply with their demand; and having presented them
with four bars of tobacco, for the king's use, I was permitted to
continue my journey, and at sunset reached a village near
Kootacunda, where we rested for the night.
In the morning of December 4th I passed Kootacunda, the last town of
Walli, and stopped about an hour at a small adjoining village to pay
customs to an officer of the king of Woolli; we rested the ensuing
night at a village called Tabajang; and at noon the next day
(December 5th) we reached Medina, the capital of the king of
Woolli's dominions.
The kingdom of Woolli is bounded by Walli on the west, by the Gambia
on the south, by the small river Walli on the north-west, by Bondou
on the north-east, and on the east by the Simbani wilderness.
The inhabitants are Mandingoes, and, like most of the Mandingo
nations, are divided into two great sects - the Mohammedans, who are
called bushreens, and the pagans, who are called indiscriminately
kafirs (unbelievers) and sonakies (i.e., men who drink strong
liquors). The pagan natives are by far the most numerous, and the
government of the country is in their hands; for though the most
respectable among the bushreens are frequently consulted in affairs
of importance, yet they are never permitted to take any share in the
executive government, which rests solely in the hands of the mansa,
or sovereign, and great officers of the state. Of these, the first
in point of rank is the presumptive heir of the crown, who is called
the farbanna. Next to him are the alkaids, or provincial governors,
who are more frequently called keamos. Then follow the two grand
divisions of free-men and slaves; of the former, the slatees, so
frequently mentioned in the preceding pages, are considered as the
principal; but, in all classes, great respect is paid to the
authority of aged men.
On the death of the reigning monarch, his eldest son (if he has
attained the age of manhood) succeeds to the regal authority. If
there is no son, or if the son is under the age of discretion, a
meeting of the great men is held, and the late monarch's nearest
relation (commonly his brother) is called to the government, not as
regent, or guardian to the infant son, but in full right, and to the
exclusion of the minor. The charges of the government are defrayed
by occasional tributes from the people, and by duties on goods
transported across the country. Travellers, on going from the
Gambia towards the interior, pay customs in European merchandise.
On returning, they pay in iron and shea-toulou. These taxes are
paid at every town.
Medina, the capital of the kingdom, at which I was now arrived, is a
place of considerable extent, and may contain from eight hundred to
one thousand houses. It is fortified in the common African manner,
by a surrounding high wall built of clay, and an outward fence of
pointed stakes and prickly bushes; but the walls are neglected, and
the outward fence has suffered considerably from the active hands of
busy housewives, who pluck up the stakes for firewood. I obtained a
lodging at one of the king's near relations, who apprised me that at
my introduction to the king I must not presume to SHAKE HANDS WITH
HIM. "It was not usual," he said, "to allow this liberty to
strangers." Thus instructed, I went in the afternoon to pay my
respects to the sovereign, and ask permission to pass through his
territories to Bondou. The king's name was Jatta. He was the same
venerable old man of whom so favourable an account was transmitted
by Major Houghton. I found him seated upon a mat before the door of
his hut; a number of men and women were arranged on each side, who
were singing and clapping their hands. I saluted him respectfully,
and informed him of the purport of my visit. The king graciously
replied, that he not only gave me leave to pass through his country,
but would offer up his prayers for my safety. On this, one of my
attendants, seemingly in return for the king's condescension, began
to sing, or rather to roar an Arabic song, at every pause of which
the king himself, and all the people present, struck their hands
against their foreheads, and exclaimed, with devout and affecting
solemnity, "Amen, amen!" The king told me, furthermore, that I
should have a guide the day following, who would conduct me safely
to the frontier of his kingdom - I then took my leave, and in the
evening sent the king an order upon Dr. Laidley for three gallons of
rum, and received in return great store of provisions.
December 6. - Early in the morning I went to the king a second time,
to learn if the guide was ready. I found his Majesty seated upon a
bullock's hide, warming himself before a large fire, for the
Africans are sensible of the smallest variation in the temperature
of the air, and frequently complain of cold when a European is
oppressed with heat.
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