January 26. - In the forenoon I went to the top of a high hill to the
southward of Soolo, where I had a most enchanting prospect of the
country. The number of towns and villages, and the extensive
cultivation around them, surpassed everything I had yet seen in
Africa. A gross calculation may be formed of the number of
inhabitants in this delightful plain by considering that the king of
Kasson can raise four thousand fighting men by the sound of his war-
drum. In traversing the rocky eminences of this hill, which are
almost destitute of vegetation, I observed a number of large holes
in the crevasses and fissures of the rocks, where the wolves and
hyaenas take refuge during the day.
February 1. - The messengers arrived from Kaarta, and brought
intelligence that the war had not yet commenced between Bambarra and
Kaarta, and that I might probably pass through Kaarta before the
Bambarra army invaded that country.
February 3. - Early in the morning two guides on horseback came from
Kooniakary to conduct me to the frontiers of Kaarta. I accordingly
took leave of Salim Daucari, and parted for the last time from my
fellow-traveller the blacksmith, whose kind solicitude for my
welfare had been so conspicuous, and about ten o'clock departed from
Soolo. We travelled this day through a rocky and hilly country,
along the banks of the river Krieko, and at sunset came to the
village of Soomo, where we slept.
February 4. - We departed from Soomo, and continued our route along
the banks of the Krieko, which are everywhere well cultivated, and
swarm with inhabitants. At this time they were increased by the
number of people that had flown thither from Kaarta on account of
the Bambarra war. In the afternoon we reached Kimo, a large
village, the residence of Madi Konko, governor of the hilly country
of Kasson, which is called Sorroma. From hence the guides appointed
by the king of Kasson returned, to join in the expedition against
Kajaaga; and I waited until the 6th before I could prevail on Madi
Konko to appoint me a guide to Kaarta.
February 7. - Departing from Kimo, with Madi Konko's son as a guide,
we continued our course along the banks of the Krieko until the
afternoon, when we arrived at Kangee, a considerable town. The
Krieko is here but a small rivulet. This beautiful stream takes its
rise a little to the eastward of this town, and descends with a
rapid and noisy current until it reaches the bottom of the high hill
called Tappa, where it becomes more placid, and winds gently through
the lovely plains of Kooniakary; after which, having received an
additional branch from the north, it is lost in the Senegal,
somewhere near the falls of Felow.
February 8. - This day we travelled over a rough stony country, and
having passed Seimpo and a number of other villages, arrived in the
afternoon at Lackarago, a small village which stands upon the ridge
of hills that separates the kingdoms of Kasson and Kaarta. In the
course of the day we passed many hundreds of people flying from
Kaarta with their families and effects.
February 9. - Early in the morning we departed from Lackarago, and a
little to the eastward came to the brow of a hill from whence we had
an extensive view of the country. Towards the south-east were
perceived some very distant hills, which our guide told us were the
mountains of Fooladoo. We travelled with great difficulty down a
stony and abrupt precipice, and continued our way in the bed of a
dry river course, where the trees, meeting overhead, made the place
dark and cool. In a little time we reached the bottom of this
romantic glen, and about ten o'clock emerged from between two rocky
hills, and found ourselves on the level and sandy plains of Kaarta.
At noon we arrived at a korree, or watering place, where for a few
strings of beads I purchased as much milk and corn-meal as we could
eat; indeed, provisions are here so cheap, and the shepherds live in
such affluence, that they seldom ask any return for what
refreshments a traveller receives from them. From this korree we
reached Feesurah at sunset, where we took up our lodging for the
night.
February 10. - We continued at Feesurah all this day, to have a few
clothes washed, and learn more exactly the situation of affairs
before we ventured towards the capital.
February 11 - Our landlord, taking advantage of the unsettled state
of the country, demanded so extravagant a sum for our lodging that,
suspecting he wished for an opportunity to quarrel with us, I
refused to submit to his exorbitant demand; but my attendants were
so much frightened at the reports of approaching war that they
refused to proceed any farther unless I could settle matters with
him, and induce him to accompany us to Kemoo, for our protection on
the road. This I accomplished with some difficulty; and by a
present of a blanket which I had brought with me to sleep in, and
for which our landlord had conceived a very great liking, matters
were at length amicably adjusted, and he mounted his horse and led
the way. He was one of those negroes who, together with the
ceremonial part of the Mohammedan religion, retain all their ancient
superstitions, and even drink strong liquors. They are called
Johars, or Jowars, and in this kingdom form a very numerous and
powerful tribe. We had no sooner got into a dark need lonely part
of the first wood than he made a sign for us to stop, and, taking
hold of a hollow piece of bamboo that hung as an amulet round his
neck, whistled very loud there times.
