I had
always expected that my animals would die, but I had hoped they would
have carried me to the equator: this they would have accomplished during
the two months of comparative dry weather following my arrival at
Gondokoro, had not the mutiny thwarted all my plans, and thrown me into
the wet season. My animals have delivered me at Obbo, and have died in
inaction, instead of wearing out upon the road. Had I been able to start
direct from Gondokoro, as I had intended, my animals would have
delivered me in Kamrasi's country before the arrival of the heavy rains.
"There is an excellent species of gourd in Obbo; it is pear-shaped,
about ten inches long, and seven in diameter, with a white skin, and
warts upon the surface; this is the most delicate and the best-flavoured
that I have ever eaten.
"There are two varieties of castor-oil plant in this country - one with a
purple stem and bright red veins in the leaves, that is remarkably
handsome. Also a wild plantain, with a crimson stem to the leaf; this
does not grow to the height of the common plantain, but is simply a
plume of leaves springing from the ground without a parent stem."
"Aug. 30th. - Mrs. Baker and I made a morning call for the first time
upon old Katchiba by his express desire. His courtyard was cemented and
clean, about a hundred feet in diameter, surrounded by palisades, which
were overgrown with gourds and the climbing yam, Collolollo. There were
several large huts in the inclosure, belonging to his wives; he received
us very politely, and begged us to enter his principal residence; it was
simply arranged, being the usual circular hut, but about twenty-five
feet in diameter.
"Creeping on all fours through the narrow doorway, we found ourselves in
the presence of one of his wives, who was preparing merissa. The
furniture of the apartment was practical, and quite in accordance with
the taste of the old chief, as the whole establishment appeared to be
devoted to brewing merissa. There were several immense jars capable of
holding about thirty gallons: some of these were devoted to beer, while
one was reserved to contain little presents that he had received from
ourselves and the Turks, including a much-esteemed red flannel shirt:
these recherche objects were packed in the jar, and covered by a smaller
vessel inverted on the mouth to protect them from rats and white ants.
Two or three well-prepared ox-hides were spread upon the ground; and he
requested Mrs. Baker to sit on his right hand, while I sat upon the
left. Thus satisfactorily arranged, he called for some merissa, which
his wife immediately brought in an immense gourd-shell, and both my wife
and I having drunk, he took a long draught, and finished the gourd.
"The delightful old sorcerer, determined to entertain us, called for his
rababa: a species of harp was handed to him; this was formed of a hollow
base and an upright piece of wood, from which descended eight strings.
Some time was expended in carefully tuning his instrument, which, being
completed, he asked, 'if he should sing?' Fully prepared for something
comic, we begged him to begin. He sang a most plaintive and remarkably
wild, but pleasing air, accompanying himself perfectly on his harp,
producing the best music that I had ever heard among savages. In fact,
music and dancing were old Katchiba's delight, especially if combined
with deep potations.
"His song over, he rose from his seat and departed, but presently
reappeared leading a sheep by a string, which he begged us to accept. I
thanked him for his attention, but I assured him that we had not paid
him a visit with the expectation of receiving a present, and that we
could not think of accepting it, as we had simply called upon him as
friends; he accordingly handed the sheep to his wife, and shortly after
we rose to depart. Having effected an exit by creeping through the
doorway, he led us both by the hand in a most friendly way for about a
hundred yards on our path, and took leave most gracefully, expressing a
hope that we should frequently come to see him.
"On our return home we found the sheep waiting for us; determined not to
be refused, he had sent it on before us. I accordingly returned him a
most gorgeous necklace of the most valuable beads, and gave the native
who had brought the sheep a present for himself and wife; thus all
parties were satisfied, and the sheep was immediately killed for dinner.
"The following morning Katchiba appeared at my door with a large red
flag made of a piece of cotton cloth that the Turks had given him; he
was accompanied by two men beating large drums, and a third playing a
kind of clarionet: this playing at soldiers was an imitation of the
Turks. He was in great spirits, being perfectly delighted with the
necklace I had sent him."
"Oct. 6th. - I have examined my only remaining donkey: he is a picture of
misery - eyes and nose running, coat staring, and he is about to start to
join his departed comrades; he has packed up for his last journey. With
his loose skin hanging to his withered frame he looked like the British
lion on the shield over the door of the Khartoum consulate. In that
artistic effort the lion was equally lean and ragged, having perhaps
been thus represented by the artist as a pictorial allusion to the
smallness of the Consul's pay; the illustration over the shabby gateway
utters, 'Behold my leanness!
