These heights were thronged with natives, who had collected from
the numerous villages that ornamented the cliffs situated among groves
of plantains; they were armed with spears and shields; the population
ran parallel to our line of march, shouting and gesticulating as though
daring us to cross the river.
After a most enjoyable march through the exciting scene of the glorious
river crashing over innumerable falls - and in many places ornamented
with rocky islands, upon which were villages and plantain groves - we at
length approached the Karuma Falls, close to the village of Atada above
the ferry. The heights were crowded with natives, and a canoe was sent
across to within parleying distance of our side, as the roar of the
rapids prevented our voices from being heard except at a short distance.
Bacheeta now explained, that SPEKE'S BROTHER had arrived from his
country to pay Kamrasi a visit, and had brought him valuable presents."
"Why has he brought so many men with him?" inquired the people from the
canoe.
"There are so many presents for the M'Kamma (King) that he has many men
to carry them," shouted Bacheeta.
"Let us look at him!" cried the headman in the boat: having prepared for
the introduction by changing my clothes in a grove of plantains for my
dressing room, and altering my costume to a tweed suit, something
similar to that worn by Speke, I climbed up a high and almost
perpendicular rock that formed a natural pinnacle on the face of the
cliff, and, waving my cap to the crowd on the opposite side, I looked
almost as imposing as Nelson in Trafalgar Square.
I instructed Bacheeta, who climbed up the giddy height after me, to
shout to the people that an English lady, my wife, had also arrived, and
that we wished immediately to be presented to the king and his family,
as we had come to thank him for his kind treatment of Speke and Grant,
who had arrived safe in their own county. Upon this being explained and
repeated several times, the canoe approached the shore.
I ordered all our people to retire, and to conceal themselves among the
plantains, that the natives might not be startled by so imposing a
force, while Mrs. Baker and I advanced alone to meet Kamrasi's people,
who were men of some importance. Upon landing through the high reeds,
they immediately recognized the similarity of my beard and general
complexion to that of Speke; and their welcome was at once displayed by
the most extravagant dancing and gesticulating with lances and shields,
as though intending to attack, rushing at me with the points of their
lances thrust close to my face, and shouting and singing in great
excitement.
