How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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By-And-By, A Few Miles South Of The Base Of This
Ridge (Which I Call Kasera, From The Country
Which it cuts in
halves), these several ravines converge and debouch into the broad,
[marshy?], oozy, spongy "river" of Usense,
Which trends in a
south-easterly direction; after which, gathering the contents of
the watercourses from the north and northeast into its own broader
channel, it soon becomes a stream of some breadth and consequence,
and meets a river flowing from the east, from the direction of
Urori, with which it conflows in the Rikwa Plain, and empties about
sixty rectilineal miles further west into the Tanganika Lake. The
Rungwa River, I am informed, is considered as a boundary line
between the country of Usowa on the north, and Ufipa on the south.
We had barely completed the construction of our camp defences when
some of the men were heard challenging a small party of natives
which advanced towards our camp, headed by a man who, from his
garb and head-dress, we knew was from Zanzibar. After interchanging
the customary salutations, I was informed that this party was an
embassy from Simba ("Lion"), who ruled over Kasera, in Southern
Unyamwezi. Simba, I was told, was the son of Mkasiwa, King of
Unyanyembe, and was carrying on war with the Wazavira, of whom I was
warned to beware. He had heard such reports of my greatness that he
was sorry I did not take his road to Ukawendi, that he might have
had the opportunity of seeing me, and making friends with me; but
in the absence of a personal visit Simba had sent this embassy to
overtake me, in the hope that I would present him with a token of
my friendship in the shape of cloth. Though I was rather taken
aback by the demand, still it was politic in me to make this powerful
chief my friend, lest on my return from the search after Livingstone
he and I might fall out. And since it was incumbent on me to make
a present, for the sake of peace, it was necessary to exhibit my
desire for peace by giving - if I gave at all - a royal present.
The ambassador conveyed from me to Simba, or the "Lion" of Kasera,
two gorgeous cloths, and two other doti consisting of Merikani
and Kaniki; and, if I might believe the ambassador, I had made
Simba a friend for ever.
On the 18th of October, breaking camp at the usual hour, we
continued our march north-westward by a road which zig-zagged
along the base of the Kasera mountains, and which took us into
all kinds of difficulties. We traversed at least a dozen marshy
ravines, the depth of mire and water in which caused the utmost
anxiety. I sunk up to my neck in deep holes in the Stygian ooze
caused by elephants, and had to tramp through the oozy beds of
the Rungwa sources with any clothes wet and black with mud and slime.
Decency forbade that I should strip; and the hot sun would also
blister my body. Moreover, these morasses were too frequent to lose
time in undressing and dressing, and, as each man was weighted with
his own proper load, it would have been cruel to compel the men to
bear me across. Nothing remained, therefore, but to march on, all
encumbered as I was with my clothing and accoutrements, into these
several marshy watercourses, with all the philosophical stoicism
that my nature could muster for such emergencies. But it was very
uncomfortable, to say the least of it.
We soon entered the territory of the dreaded Wazavira, but no
enemy was in sight. Simba, in his wars, had made clean work of
the northern part of Uzavira, and we encountered nothing worse than
a view of the desolated country, which must have been once - judging
from the number of burnt huts and debris of ruined villages - extremely
populous. A young jungle was sprouting up vigorously in their
fields, and was rapidly becoming the home of wild denizens of the
forest. In one of the deserted and ruined villages, I found
quarters for the Expedition, which were by no means uncomfortable.
I shot three brace of guinea-fowl in the neighbourhood of Misonghi,
the deserted village we occupied, and Ulimengo, one of my hunters,
bagged an antelope, called the "mbawala," for whose meat some of
the Wanyamwezi have a superstitious aversion. I take this species
of antelope, which stands about three and a half feet high, of a
reddish hide, head long, horns short, to be the "Nzoe" antelope
discovered by Speke in Uganda, and whose Latin designation is,
according to Dr. Sclater, Tragelaphus Spekii." It has a short
bushy tail, and long hair along the spine.
A long march in a west-by-north direction, lasting six hours,
through a forest where the sable antelope was seen, and which was
otherwise prolific with game, brought us to a stream which ran by
the base of a lofty conical hill, on whose slopes flourished quite
a forest of feathery bamboo.
On the 20th, leaving our camp, which lay between the stream and
the conical hill above mentioned, and surmounting a low ridge which
sloped from the base of the hill-cone, we were greeted with another
picturesque view, of cones and scarped mountains, which heaved
upward in all directions. A march of nearly five hours through
this picturesque country brought us to the Mpokwa River, one of
the tributaries of the Rungwa, and to a village lately deserted
by the Wazavira. The huts were almost all intact, precisely as
they were left by their former inhabitants. In the gardens were
yet found vegetables, which, after living so long on meat, were
most grateful to us. On the branches of trees still rested the
Lares and Penates of the Wazavira, in the shape of large and
exceedingly well-made earthen pots.
In the neighbouring river one of my men succeeded, in few minutes,
in catching sixty fish of the silurus species the hand alone.
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