How I Found Livingstone Travels, Adventures And Discoveries In Central Africa Including Four Months Residence With Dr. Livingstone By Sir Henry M. Stanley
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It Was
Getting Oppressive, This Narrowing Ravine, And Opportunely The
Road Breasted A Knoll, Then A Terrace, Then A Hill, And Lastly A
Mountain, Where We Halted To Encamp.
As we prepared to select a
camping-place, the Doctor silently pointed forward, and suddenly
a dead silence reigned everywhere.
The quinine which I had taken
in the morning seemed to affect me in every crevice of my brain;
but a bitter evil remained, and, though I trembled under the heavy
weight of the Reilly rifle, I crept forward to where the Doctor
was pointing. I found myself looking down a steep ravine, on the
other bank of which a fine buffalo cow was scrambling upward. She
had just reached the summit, and was turning round to survey her
enemy, when I succeeded in planting a shot just behind the shoulder
blade, and close to the spine, evoking from her a deep bellow of pain.
"She is shot! she is shot!" exclaimed the Doctor; "that is a sure sign
you have hit her." And the men even raised a shout at the prospect
of meat. A second, planted in her spine, brought her to her knees,
and a third ended her. We thus had another supply of provisions,
which, cut up and dried over a fire, as the Wangwana are accustomed
to do, would carry them far over the unpeopled wilderness before
us. For the Doctor and myself, we had the tongue, the hump, and
a few choice pieces salted down, and in a few days had prime
corned beef. It is not inapt to state that the rifle had more
commendations bestowed on it than the hunter by the Wangwana.
The next day we continued the march eastward, under the guidance
of our kirangozi; but it was evident, by the road he led us,
that he knew nothing of the country, though, through his
volubility, he had led us to believe that he knew all about Ngondo,
Yombeh, and Pumburu's districts. When recalled from the head of
the caravan, we were about to descend into the rapid Loajeri, and
beyond it were three ranges of impassable mountains, which we were
to cross in a north-easterly direction; quite out of our road.
After consulting with the Doctor, I put myself at the head of the
caravan, and following the spine of the ridge, struck off due east,
regardless of how the road ran. At intervals a travelled road
crossed our path, and, after following it a while, we came to the
ford of the Loajeri. The Loajeri rises south and south-east of
Kakungu Peak. We made the best we could of the road after crossing
the river, until we reached the main path that runs from Karah to
Ngondo and Pumburu, in Southern Kawendi.
On the 9th, soon after leaving camp, we left the travelled path,
and made for a gap in the are of hills before us, as Pumburu was
at war with the people of Manya Msenge, a district of northern
Kawendi. The country teemed with game, the buffaloes and zebras
were plentiful. Among the conspicuous trees were the hyphene and
borassus palm trees, and a tree bearing a fruit about the size of
a 600-pounder cannon-ball, called by some natives "mabyah,"*
according to the Doctor, the seeds of which are roasted and eaten.
They are not to be recommended as food to Europeans.
_________________
* In the Kisawahili tongue, "mabyah," "mbyah, "byah," mean bad,
unpleasant.
_________________
On the 10th, putting myself at the head of my men, with my
compass in hand, I led the way east for three hours. A beautiful
park-land was revealed to us; but the grass was very tall, and
the rainy season, which had commenced in earnest, made my work
excessively disagreeable. Through this tall grass, which was as
high as my throat, I had to force my way, compass in hand, to
lead the Expedition, as there was not the least sign of a road,
and we were now in an untravelled country. We made our camp on
a beautiful little stream flowing north; one of the feeders of
the Rugufu River.
The 11th still saw me plunging through the grass, which showered
drops of rain on me every time I made a step forward. In two
hours we crossed a small stream, with slippery syenitic rocks in
its bed, showing the action of furious torrents. Mushrooms were
in abundance, and very large. In crossing, an old pagazi of
Unyamwezi, weather-beaten, uttered, in a deplorable tone, "My
kibuyu is dead;" by which he meant that he had slipped, and in
falling had broken his gourd, which in Kisawahili is "kibuyu."
On the eastern bank we halted for lunch, and, after an hour and
a half's march, arrived at another stream, which I took to be the
Mtambu, at first from the similarity of the land, though my map
informed me that it was impossible. The scenery around was very
similar, and to the north we had cited a similar tabular hill to
the "Magdala" Mount I had discovered north of Imrera, while going
to the Malagarazi. Though we had only travelled three and a half
hours the Doctor was very tired as the country was exceedingly
rough.
The next day, crossing several ranges, with glorious scenes of
surpassing beauty everywhere around us, we came in view of a
mighty and swift torrent, whose bed was sunk deep between enormous
lofty walls of sandstone rock, where it roared and brawled with
the noise of a little Niagara.
Having seen our camp prepared on a picturesque knoll, I thought I
would endeavour to procure some meat, which this interesting region
seemed to promise. I sallied out with my little Winchester along
the banks of the river eastward. I travelled for an hour or two,
the prospect getting more picturesque and lovely, and then went up
a ravine which looked very promising. Unsuccessful, I strode up
the bank, and my astonishment may be conceived when I found
myself directly in front of an elephant, who had his large broad
ears held out like studding sails - the colossal monster, the
incarnation of might of the African world.
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